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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attr...
This broiler pan and roasting rack set is designed to help reduce mess while cooking by allowing grease to drain away from food. Its durable porcelain-coated construction stands up to high temperature...
This gas burner grate is used for some gas ranges and cooktops. This is a black burner grate with each side measuring almost eight inches. This part may become rusted or burnt over time if not properl...
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa
... Read mores not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
If your stove work's but your oven won't get hot it is your ignigter the ignighter in proper working condition sends a signal to the gas valve saying let the gas flow its ok. When the ignighter quits working it won't let the gas flow and your oven will not get hot. It is an easy fix. Just pull out all of interior parts the racks and th
... Read moree bottom heat shield the ignighter the white stone looking part that is screwed to the burner with two wires and it really don't matter what way the wires go back one of the wires connects in the back so you will have to pull the oven out. Now you have to clean under it and your done.
Removed oven door and burner guard. Removed screws holding ignitor bracket and small panel beneath oven door. Disconnected ignitor wires behind panel and pulled out ignitor. Removed old ignitor from bracket and inserted new unit. Fed wires back down thru tubing and screwed in bracket. Connected wires and replaced panel. (Note: old ignitor
... Read more glowed but would not pass enough current to operate gas valve)
