MLE19PDAGW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.

Tools required: Stubby socket wrench, 5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 1/4" socket, #3 Phillips screwdriver, external circlip pliers, straight slip joint pliers. A decently strong electric screwdriver is highly recommended - Milwaukee 2401-20 M12 cordless 1/4" Hex Screwdriver, for example.

Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas supply.

Remove the screws holding the door hinges to the dryer.

Remove the door and hinges from the dryer by pulling the door and hinges up, then out.

Remove the two plastic thingies (door stops), opposite of where the hinges were, from the front panel of the dryer. Each plastic piece is held in place by two screws.

Grasp the front panel by its top edge, pull it toward you, then lift the panel up and off the clips at the bottom.

There are a couple metal brackets holding the top of the dryer down to the front shroud (the doorway) and frame, one on either side. Each bracket is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws, remove the brackets, then rock the top panel up and back, like the hood of a car.

Remove the screws holding the shroud to the frame. Look carefully. There are two screws that look like they hold the shroud to the frame, but actually do not. Don't remove these screws yet.

Remove the screws holding the plastic duct / lint screen slot to the shroud. These are very long.

Disconnect the wires from the door switch.

Remove the shroud.

Remember the two screws I referenced previously, stating they shouldn't yet be removed? Now's the time to remove them. Do so, then set the panel aside, being careful not to damage any wires. Don't lose the rubber gasket sitting around the circular portion of the duct.

There's a metal cover over the blower wheel. This cover is held in place by a bunch of screws. Remove them all, then remove the cover.

Remove the circlip going around the blower shaft, in front of the blower wheel.

Remove the clamp from around the blower wheel and shaft.

Pull the blower wheel off the shaft.

Install the new blower wheel.

Reinstall the clamp around the blower wheel and shaft.

Reinstall the circlip.

Reinstall the metal blower cover.

Make sure the rear of the drum is resting on the wheels.

Now things become a little difficult, because you have to fight the drum a little bit. Put the panel containing the moisture sensor, front drum seal, and duct into position. (Be careful not to mess up the drum glides. Make sure the rubber seal at the bottom of the vent is in place, sealing the vent to the blower.) Screw the panel into place with two screws, but don't fully tighten yet.

There's a felt seal that is supposed to go between the rear lip of the drum and the rear inside wall. The seal is supposed to be held folded, pinched between the lip and the wall, with the edge of the seal being outside the drum. The seal isn't supposed to jut into the inside of the drum. Use your fingers and some other tool to push the rear felt drum seal out of the inside of the drum. If you use a screwdriver, be careful that you don't cut, rip, or otherwise damage the felt seal.

Do the same with the front felt drum seal.

Carefully inspect the felt seals. You don't want any portion of the seal somehow working its way back into the inside of the drum. Then verify again that the rubber seal that goes between the blower housing and the vent is in place and properly sealing. Now tighten the screws.

Connect the wires to the door switch on the shroud, then loosely screw the shroud in place. Screw the shroud to the vent. Once all the screws are in place, tighten all the screws.

Lower the top of the dryer into position.

Hook a bracket into one side of the lid, position the bracket over the front shroud, then screw in place.

Repeat with the other bracket.

Place the front panel onto the bottom clips. Seat the panel onto the clips all the way, then rock the panel forward into place.

Install the plastic door stops.

Insert the door hinges into their slots, push the door down to seat into place, then install the screws that hold the hinges in place.

Plug the dryer in, turn on the gas, test.

1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.

My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.

I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.

We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.

got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.

Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

First ya have to find the problem that takes time.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.

I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)

Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.

Did an internet search for parts for my older Maytag dryer. Landed on PartSelect and man I am glad I did! Entered my model number and boom! Complete schematics on the dryer, with part numbers. Also have diagnostic questions to point you in the right direction. Figured out what parts I needed, ordered via phone. Fantastic customer service. PartSelect also has excellent installation videos you can watch to assist. Took me a little over an hour to open up the dryer, replace the drum rollers, drum belt, idler roller and both front and rear felt seals. Buttoned dryer back up, hit the run switch and it purs like brand new. I cannot recommend PartSelect to highly. Great company, great customer service, quick shipping.

I removed the control panel and front panel, then the brace holding in the drum. Then the drum came out easily.

Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.

After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.

Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.

Removed four philips screws, two holding door on and two on opposite side of door in order to remove front cover. Then removed two 5/16 screws holding clips that lock the top cover down. Then the top cover hinges up with open access to the drum. The baffles are held into place with two #10 x 1 1/4" screws with 5/16" head each. These had pulled through the drum. Installed new baffles (do NOT come with screws / you'll have to buy some). Had to put small washers (also had to buy) on the screws to hold it onto the drum since the other screw heads pulled through the drum. Closed lid, installed retaining clips, installed door onto frame, installed front cover around door, then screwed door hinges into front cover and screws to other side. Took about as long to write these directions as it did to actually do the work... EASY job!!