MAT26PCABW Maytag Washer - Instructions

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.

The three parts fit together to form one unit. As has been mentioned here already I'm not sure what purpose they serve. I'm also not sure how replacing them stopped the leak but it did. If it had not stopped I think I could have bypassed the valve entirely with a piece of hose or PVC and had it work just fine.

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .

First time this part was replaced on our 30+ year old Maytag washer. Remove the front panel by removing the two screws near the bottom and swinging the panel out and away from the machine. There are two metal spring-type clips that hold the top of the panel to the top (lid panel) of the washer. Remove two sheet metal screws holding the lid panel to the side panels at the front of the machine. Lid panel is hinged at the back. Lift and swing the lid panel up and against the wall so it does not swing completely backwards. Remove the Injector hose from the top of the tub by turning about a quarter turn and lifting away. Loosen the clamp holding the other end of the hose to the inlet valve at the back of the machine. Remove the old injector hose by pulling it free of the intake valve. Save the clamp to use on the new injector hose. Finally, remove the screw at the air gap to free the old injector hose. Reverse the steps to install the new hose. It is important that the plastic box on top of the air gap faces upward. On my machine the hose clamp screw heads interfered with the side of the machine preventing proper orientation of the air gap. If so, loosen the clamps and rotate them out of the way and re-tighten.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.

unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order

Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!

Installed drive and pump belt.. very very simple. only tool required was a screw drive to remove front panel of the washing machine.

Replaced both the drive belt and pump belt in less than 10 minutes. Maytag has the easiest machines to work on.

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you

Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.