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Models > MAT15MNAWW0 > Instructions

MAT15MNAWW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MAT15MNAWW0
61 - 75 of 429
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Agitator was not turning. Dogears were worn out
First need to remove cap on Agitator. Inside there is a washplate bolt. Remove bolt. Old Agitator will slide up. Pull washer off stem. Clean grooved stem very well. Use some sort of lubricant on stem. Slide new Agitator on to stem. Part will be very snug as metal and plastic do not mix well. (Lubricant needed) Use board to lay flat on top. Gently tap with mallet until fully seated. Install new bolt. Run test wash. (Helps clean wash tub from any foreign substances.)
Parts Used:
Agitator Washer Washer Washplate Bolt
  • Clinton from OKLAHOMA CITY, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Washer wouldn’t drain and spin
First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.
Parts Used:
Washer Screw
  • Thomas from KENT, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Leaked, disassembly revealed it was the drive seal washer grommet. Drive block was also rusted out and frozen to the washer drum
Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!
Parts Used:
Cabinet Retaining Clip
  • James from ARVADA, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer tub goes out of balance in spin cycle.
Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.
Parts Used:
Leveling Spring
  • Dale from DOTHAN, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leak
Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.
Parts Used:
Pump Retainer Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Joe from Buelton, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Leaking pump
I could not make the repair. If you get the pump specified on the shaft that drives the pump, the pump will be broken. I tried to call, nobody answers the phone. I ended up buying a Washing Machine and I'm stuck with a pump I cannot use.
Parts Used:
Pump Retainer Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Paul from GARNER, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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washing machine will agitate but not spin
I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.
Parts Used:
NEUTRAL DRAIN KIT
  • Robert from Manchester, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
14 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water Pump Replacement
Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is.
So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!
Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while.
New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Jim from Hamburg, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer wouldn't drain
removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • ed from pittsburgh, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Water Pump leaked
We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • alan from american fork, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Hole in the water pump
Just changed out the old pump with the new one. It went very quick and smooth!
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Richard from Alexander, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washer leaked during the filling cycle.
It took me awhile to figure out how to get the shell off the washer frame. (I didn't know about flipping it on its back). Once the moving parts were revealed, the water pump was staring at me with both ports. I turned the machine on and saw that the leak was coming from the pump.
1. Cut power
2. unclipped pump with pry with screwdriver
3. detatched both hoses - flood ensued
4. gently pulled pump off transmission
5. replaced pump

I reccommend doing this repair with empty tub.
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • erik from willimantic, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Pump failed in cloths Washer
First, disconnect from power & turning off the water. Then, accessed the part by tipping the unit back enough to work. Remove the hoses by loosening the spring clamps. Here is where things got a bit sticky. The pump motor shaft had corroded enough to make removal of the pump a wrestling match of sub-WWF levels. Once forced off, additional time was spent removing corrosion from the shaft to facilitate fitting the new unit. A little lube was used here. Re-assembly was quick & washer was righted, plugged in and returned to service. It is a simple repair which can, with a little acting ability, be portrayed as a monumental task requiring super-human strength & the wisdom of Solomon. I played the part well enough to merit a huckleberry pie for my effort & sacrifice! Thanks!
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • S. from Kennewick, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washing machine leaked
First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Lisa from Walker, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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small leak from pump
Make sure you UNPLUG your washer first. It is also a good idea to remove the water intake hoses from the back to avoid damage to them or the valves.

Getting the outer panels off was the hardest part for me. There are 2 screws on the back of the function panel. You don't have to remove the screws completely, just until they are unscrewed from the bottom base. Then I gently pulled forward and up on the function panel and it flips back exposing the wiring. There is one wire harness plug that needs to be disconnected toward the center of the panel.
There are 2 large metal clips that are removed by pressing a flat head screwdriver into them. Press down and slightly toward the front of the washer and it will release the clip. Be careful, mine popped up and flew behind the washer.
Once the clips are removed you can pull the entire caging of the washer (top, front, right and left side panels as one) away from the machine. This will expose the entire innards of the washer.
In the front at the bottom is the water pump. It is very easily removed. Pinch the clamps around the hoses with a pair of pliers and move them up the hoses. Pull both hoses off the pump.
There are 2 metal clamps holding the pump in place. You can release them using a flat head screwdriver as well. Once free from clamps, the pump can be pulled straight forward to be removed.
Replace the pump with the new one, placing it in the same place and position as the old one. Attach the clamps back on. Mine were really hard to reattach as the tension was really tight.
Then slide the hoses back on and use the pliers to squeeze and slide the clamps back down the hoses to secure them to the pump.
Replace the cage of the machine. On my particular model, the front panel hooks under a metal lip and the side panels rest on them, so it was a challenge getting it back into place by myself in the small area I was working in.
Replace the metal clips on the top using the flat head screwdriver by pulling slightly toward the front of the washer and pressing down.
It was a little scary, I thought I was going to pinch myself.
Then reattach the one wire harness, flip the console back down and secure tightly.
Screw the 2 screws back in on the back of the function panel and your done. Reattach the hoses and plug in your washer.

This was my first washer repair. I did it with some sketchy online instructions for a different model washer. It took forever to get the washer open and was even more frustrating to put it back together. Changing out the pump was simple once I got in there. I saved over $100 in labor by doing this myself and in only took about 45 minutes.
I think I'm ready to open up the dryer and give it a good cleaning.
Parts Used:
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
  • Jessica from Tallahassee, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the MAT15MNAWW0
61 - 75 of 429