MAT10CSAAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.

Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years before I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

I found the electrical prints in the control panel. I found the door and check switch, and used my volt meter to determine which one was bad. It was the check switch, so I went online with PartSelect and ordered what I needed.

I had the model and serial numbers. So it was really easy to find the replacement part. It arrived in just days after I ordered. We are back in business. Thank you for your service, John Gamble, Marysville, Ohio

It would seem that my unhappy washer decided to
have a multiple component breakdown. after replacing one part after another, my baby runs like new. parts arrived quickly and installed easily, it was all the diagnostic that took the most time. the forums were quite helpful.

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

Pulled the switch assembly cover off. Removed the screws that held the lid switch assembly on and replaced the assembly.
I just want to say that the online exploded view of the parts list was very helpful. I really needed pictures and your website had them. Also the service delivered my part very swiftly and ordering was easy. If I ever need appliance parts again I will order them from your website.

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Remove the rear panel covering the control panel. Remove the two screws on each side of the upper control panel. The top removes with gentle (or not so gentle) taps toward the front of the washer. Lift the upper away but be careful of the attached wires. Top must be removed or switch cannot be removed as it cannot pass the cycle selector. Note the wire positions and colors to the switch assembly, remove them, and loosen the screw holding the switch assembly in place. Tilit assembly up like opening a book and lift up and away from the washer being careful of the lid switch actuator below. Replace with new assembly, making sure actuator is positioned to activate switches, and reattach the same screw. Reattach wires to appropriate places, replace top control panel and reattach screws, replace rear panel.

Replaced the lid switch assembly, works like a charm.
10 minute repair, 4 screws for the front panel, one for the switch assembly. Be careful not to break the plastic tabs that hold the right side of the assembly. As someone else noted, adjust the assembly front/back in the screw slot so the switch activates properly for open/close.
Fast shipping, great price, thanks Part Select!