JB710WH2WW General Electric Range - Instructions
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Broken interior oven window
It took a bit of head scratching to remove the oven door. I had read another user saying he'd removed the hinge screws unneccessarily, so I left them alone. I eventually was able to locate the locks on each hinge. Once they were disengaged, it was a simple matter to lift off the door. After that, I removed all the screws (except the hinge screws) and took the door apart. Once it was disassembled, I found two loose triangular pieces, about 1 1/2" long. I later discovered these were spacers for the two top srews. They were placed on end, and the top screws passed through them. All in all, a relatively simple repair, which absolutely amazed my wife, landlord, faily, etc.
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George from Bowie, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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Broiler element was bad
1st and formost, unplug the range from the outlet or shut th breaker off (Ranges are on a seperate breaker). Detach 2 wires on the back of the range connected to the element. Remove three nut screws inside the oven holding the old element in place . 1 on the top and 2 at the back of the oven. Now just reverse this procedure to install the new element and your all done.
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David from LENOIR CITY, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 4 people
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element burned out
couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.
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raleigh from gresham, OR
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Bake element melted.
Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.
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Allen from HENRICO, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
2 of 2 people
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lights blown out
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Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 14 people
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Oven could not be turned off once settings were turned on except by unplugging hookup.
Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.
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Charles from BENNETTSVILLE, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Defective switch
Replaced element control switches
Parts Used:
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Mary from EDENTON, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Oven would shut down while baking. Stove top would work.
Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.
Parts Used:
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Tom from ELIZABETHTON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Just didn't work no pwr to it
Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.
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Jerry from HOPEWELL, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Stove overheated with an F2 error
Removed screws holding temp sensor, pulled wire out from behind wall until found connector, disconnected old sensor.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
Measured resistance of old sensor and compared with new sensor, they measured nearly the same. Installed the new sensor and tested the stove. Came up to temp ok. No problem since, about 2 weeks.
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Richard from PHOENIX, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Top glass top burner wasn’t working
I first ordered the wrong part and had to call customer service. They handled the return and ordered the new piece beautifully!! The installation was really simple. Once I took out two screws holding the top down, I removed three clips holding the burner on then switched out the electrical leads. Put everything back and it worked perfectly!!
Parts Used:
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Robert from PAWTUCKET, RI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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the small burner was burnt out
after removing the two screws that are just inside the oven, I propted the top open with the box that the part came in. I drew and labeled the wires as I took them off using a color coding. next I removed the two clips that held the burner in place and marked on the new burner exactly where the clips were attached. Replacing the clips was possibly the hardest part of the whole operation. When you replace the burner, don't forget to replace the insulation pad that is stuck one the metal where the conections are. I missed this and had to reopen the stovetop and slid it on after I was finished. Otherwise it went pretty smooth.
Parts Used:
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Jack from Columbiaville, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Electrode burnt off on left side
First I removed the five screws that hold the
element in place and pulled the element out
about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
and hooked a piece of wire on the leads to make sure they did not fall behind the cabinet.
Then I connected the new element to the lead
wires and removed the piece of wire and secured the new element in place with the mounting screws. Took about 25 minutes to remove and replace.
element in place and pulled the element out
about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
and hooked a piece of wire on the leads to make sure they did not fall behind the cabinet.
Then I connected the new element to the lead
wires and removed the piece of wire and secured the new element in place with the mounting screws. Took about 25 minutes to remove and replace.
Parts Used:
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Kenneth from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 2 people
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Oven would not get come up to temperature
I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!
Parts Used:
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Arthur from INDIANAPOLIS, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Bottom channel trim rusted
Removed door from range(see manual for instructions). Set door face down on protective cloth material .Remove two top screwws, 3 bottom screws and lift back of door off. Remove two screws on each side of door bottom channel and remove channel. Put in new trim on bottom of glass window and put screws back in. Set back of door on top of front cover and screw two top screws and 3 bottom screws back in. Set door back into range. Lock clips on both hinges.
Parts Used:
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Arthur from TORRANCE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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