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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
first remove lower drawer to access 3 1/4” door trim screws. Use nutdriver to remove 3 door trim screws on lower portion of door. Next, remove 2 door handle screws using small star(torch) wrench.. Carefully install new replacement glass inside outside door trim assembly by removing 2 of the inside door handle assembly screws using 1/4” nutdriver. Then carefully installing glass and reassembling all. Be Patient!! Take your time. This glass panel is extremely fragile!
One of the electric range heaters could no longer be controlled. It heated up for no reason.
Pulled the range away from the wall. Took two screws off of top cover with 1/8th socket wrench. Took small Philips head screw off the top, just leaned the cover away from the top. It still held in slots at its bottom so no need to drop it away from the range. Removed the dial from the front exposing two small Philips head screws. Removed screws, and pulled the comptroller away from the rear of the range. Held the new one in the same position as the old one and removed one connection at a time, and replaced them into the new part. Did everything in reverse to put it all back together. Believe me, easy as could be and you just saved $200 repair man cost. Part matched old part exactly.
With circuit breaker off, I opened the oven door and removed the two mounting hex-head screws that held the cooking element at the rear of the oven. I pulled the oven away from the wall and unplugged the unit's 220 volt power cord from the wall. I removed the rear cover panel by removing five hex-head screws that held the panel in place. I sought out the wires that connected to the oven element and pulled the tabs from the failed element. I moved to the front of the stove to remove the old element. As the contact ends of the element are curved up, I needed to lift the front of the old element up to an approximate angle of 45 degrees before I was able to remove it from the oven. I then placed the new element into the mounting holes, again with the front of the element raised at an angle. Its insertion was easily performed. I replaced the main element mounting screws at the rear of the oven. I went to the rear of stove again and reconnected the power tabs to the element contacts. I repositioned the rear cover panel and replaced the five hex-head screws to secure it into place. The main power was reconnected to the power outlet and carefully slid the stove back into position. Circuit power was reset and the oven tested successfully.
The back burner was not providing constant temperature...turn it warmer and it got too hot...turn it down and it would be cold.
I viewed the video available through part-select. The most important thing I learned to do was to change one wire at a time instead of removing the old switch completely and then installing the new one. With 5 wires involved, it was really simple to install and not have to remember which wire went where. I was surprised how easy it was and it works wonderfully!
Replaced infinity switch: unplugged stove;. Removed upper back panel (4 small screws using socket wrench. Appropriate size box wrench would be fine, too); pulled off burner control dial. Removed 2 small screws with phillips screwdriver. From back of stove noted position of infinity switch . Replaced wires, 1 at a time, onto new switch. Pushed new switch into same position as old switch. Secured with the previously removed screws. Replaced the control dial. Replaced upper back panel of stove.
The double burner would not regulate, stuck on high
Unplug range, pull out to access back panel. Remove enough screws to access the burner switch. Remove knob, 2 screws hold the switch, remove them. You can now pull the switch out the back. It had 2 electrical plugs remove them. Install on new switch and put back together. The switch I got was exact replacement, thanks partselect
When my wife tried to get the oven door apart to clean behind the glass front, she bent the Door Bottom Channel Trim, so I had to order a new trim piece.
Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.
After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.
I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)
I pulled out the drawer and inserted the new support. This one inserts into the back of the drawer as opposed to the sides. I had ordered two of the replacements even though I only needed one and decided to replace both. I think it was a good move as the drawer works better than when we first got it. Just one simple screw made it complete.
I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.
The new element had some kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.
