HTAP1200D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

Remove two bracket screws. Removed hose. Put new hose in place using same bracket and screws. inserted end of hose into washer drain. Secured hose to cold water hose with two zip ties.

removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.

Shut off power, removed both water hoses, detached drain hose, noticed the plastic drain hose was splitting, entered the model number in a web search, ordered part from PartSelect. received part next day and reversed previous process. Tested repair and no leaks.

We pulled out the old parts and then we got the new parts and we put them in,

Since manufacturers have finally put the mixing valve up in the control panel, it is much easier to get to. Unplug electrical power first. Then, unscrew the hot and cold supply hoses from the fittings. Remove the back-plane from the control panel and carefully lay it back to expose the mixing valve. Remove the wiring connector from the valve, and remove the mixing valve. The new valve is installed in reverse order. The very last step is to plug the washer electrical cord back in.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

The job was rather simple. After removing front panel with the aid of a putty knife to push back the spring clamps under the top panel, the pump is in plain view. Remove the two mounting screws and push back the spring clamps that secure the connection hoses. Squeezing the spring clamps that hold the hoses onto the pump can be a bit troublesome so I removed the spring clamps completely and replaced them with radiator hose clamps which made the job a whole lot easier. Replaced the front panel and the job was finished.

replaced valve and fill nozzle, problem solved.

** not sure which was leaking si I replaced both

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

My washing machine would not agitate. I looked online for the possible repair solutions under GE website. All I needed was my model number. I typed in the model number and it gave me possible solutions. I ordered the parts from part select. Once they came in, I then went online to find video of how to repair the machine. When I found the video I needed I began disassembling my machine. I pulled the agitator off with a brisk tug and used my socket wrench to unscrew the coupler nut. Once that was off, I installed the new coupler tightened the bolt and installed the agitator. I filled the machine enough for a small load and sure enough, it worked! I did not need to use the belt, but I will have it on hand if I need to. I saved on separate shipping. VERY PLEASED!

First tried pulling the old agitator out by hand but couldn't get my fingers under it to pull upward. Tried several times but no success. Finally put two metal rods about 8 inches long in the holes in the bottom of the agitator and used them to lift upward, it came up immediately. I then pushed the new agitator down into the slot and it was finished. There is always a way when you think about it.you are a winner.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.

pulled up on agitator and it came off and replaced it with the new one