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GEF331AS2 Gibson Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the GEF331AS2
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Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.
Parts Used:
Drum Baffle
  • Alfred from Loveland, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
Parts Used:
Ball Hitch
  • john from waynesboro, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not start.
Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Onmi from Douglas, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Motor shaft broke
had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.
Parts Used:
Drive Motor with Pulley
  • Beverly from Blairsville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was not drying clothes
Other repair stories about this product are very accurate and I used them to do the repair, so I see no need to be redundant.

I'd just like to draw attention to the following:
Disassembling the dryer is somewhat easy. Replacing the heating element is very easy.
Replacing the belt is very easy.

Replacing the drum bearing is somewhat difficult. I purchased a "T" screwdriver in order to get more torque on the screws. When I had the drum bearing in place and the screws partially inserted, I laid a piece of thick foam on the floor and set the drum, bearing side down, on the foam. It is very difficult to get enough tension on the screws to get them through the bearing plate, but setting the drum up this way at least allows you to use gravity to your advantage.

Thanks again to Part Select for making the part purchasing experience so effortless.

Thanks to other writers of "Repair Stories" for making my repair so easy.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit Heating Element Assembly
  • Tina from The Plains, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
17 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer not working
After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Susan from Point Pleasent Beach, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out heater element
1.Remove 2 screws and the air intake grill on the back of the unit. remove the drive belt. 2. Remove 2 screws on rear of top, slide top back and remove. 3. Remove 2 screws about a foot down on the inside on each side of the front cover. Remove four screws that secure the plastic control panel and the front panel that are right behind the control panel on the top. Disconnect the wiring harnesses, cut the nylon wire tie that is closest to the front cover. 3. lay unit on its back and and remove the two screws on the lower edge of the front panel, take your putty knife and slide it in the gap between the front panel and the dryer cabinet and release the two spring clips on both sides. Then you can lift off the front panel and control panel, set it to the side. 4. Remove the screw and the nylon guide from the center of the top front case crossmember. Remove the three screws on the inside rear of the drum, lift out the drum and set aside. 5. The drum pivot just sits in a nylon socket, pop it toward the top of the machine and lift it out, you may want to clean it good and re-lubricate it on reassembly. Disconnect the wires from the heating element and the heat sensor. 6. Set the cabinet upright and remove the four screws on the back side of the rear of the cabinet but not the two that are right in the center, they hold the pivot fixture and don't need to come out. The heater coil pan is now loose and ready for removal. 7. The seal between the filter housing and the blower housing was torn and this is an important part to have right, any air leak here will do the same thing as a dirty lint filter or plugged dryer exhaust and your new heating element will have a short, hot life. I pulled the old one off, scrapped the old glue off, applied the adhesive like the instructions on the tube say and after a few minutes installed the new seal then set the front panel to the side to let the adhesive dry. 8. The reassembly is just the reverse of the disassembly , use a couple nails or awls to help hold the dryer heater pan in place for screw installation and you might want to gentle squeeze the wire connecters if they feel loose, also check for clogged or kinked exhaust and stress the importance of cleaning the lint filter after EVERY load, it is small and all the air that cools the heating element must go through it, if is isn't maintained your new element won't last long. Have fun!
Parts Used:
Seal High Temperature Adhesive Heating Element Assembly
  • Gerald from Alliance, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burning odor, melted terminal block
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • DAVID from DURHAM, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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tabs on the door handle broke from use
got new door handle, inserted and clipped into place, no tools needed, time to repair 5 secs, 1 sec to insert handle, 4 secs to open and shut door numerous times to make sure it was in right. Washer and dryer are over 10 years old, but I like them because you can repair them if something breaks, with the newer models don't know if you can do this.
Parts Used:
Door Handle
  • Paul from San Jose, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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The interior spring on the timer knob broke.
I went to the website. There were visual aids to help describe the part. I picked it based on the pictures and the description. Ordering was easy and the part arrived in the time promised. I popped it on and it worked perfectly. I saved about $85 because I didn't need a repairman.

Great job!
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Diana from Beaverton, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer drum wouldnt turn
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Kara from Beckly, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Wretched screeching noise
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Paul from Broadalbin, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Blower wheel was raddling
The blower wheel was a bit difficult, but manigable to do yourself.
Parts Used:
Blower Housing with Blower Wheel
  • jena from loganville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
22 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not turn on
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Michael from Erlanger, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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Felt around drum holder worn and torn.
1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder')
2. Disconnected door switch wires
3. Tore off existing felt

NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.

4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue
5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up

NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.

6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it
7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE)
8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt
9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt
10. Re-attached the existing felt
11. Let the glue set-up overnight
12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away
13. Reconnected the door switch wires
14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt
15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service

NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.
Parts Used:
Lower Front Felt Seal with Adhesive
  • Robert from York, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the GEF331AS2
31 - 45 of 465