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GEF331AS2 Gibson Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the GEF331AS2
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Rear bearing assembly failed and damage heating element
Removed top using a butter knife to release the two tabs in the front(between the top and the front). Removed the front(two screws from the inside. removed rear louver panel(four screws). reached in through rear panel and released belt. removed drum assembly and change out, bearing assembly drum and bushing assembly in the back panel, being sure not to forget the grounding bearing(had my 9 year old give me an extra hand to hold the ball bearing on the back..
Replaced the slider felt on the drum and the belt since i had it apart. Also replaced the seal from the front panel to the blower motor.. while it was apart i cleaned the inside with bleach and a rag. reasembled a tryed it out. Run like a new dryer- Nice and quiet.- It had been sqeeking for months before the it stopped working. the time it took to fix it was a lot less hassle than it would have been to buy a new and get rid of the old one. And it saved me money. I love saving money!! I would recomend partsselec.com t.good prices,fast shipping, got what i needed. What more can you ask for..
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Seal Front Upper Felt Seal with Adhesive Rear Drum Bearing Kit Drum Glide - White Heating Element Assembly
  • Zaya from Weaverville, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
36 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer squealed loudly
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
Parts Used:
Grounding Ball Clip Grounding Ball Drum Support Bearing Ball Hitch Dryer Drum Bearing Bracket SCREW
  • Glenn from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Michelle from Dallas, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
27 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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Two knobs cracked and I had to use pliers to turn on my dryer.
All I did was take the new knobs and put them on and my dryer was like new. The knobs were an exact fit. It took 3 minutes.
Parts Used:
Rotary Knob Timer Knob
  • Cheryl from Jackson, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't heat up
I waded into this project without knowing what I was doing and as a result did much more work than was needed. What I should have done was 1) open access panel at lower left of back of dryer and rmove belt from pully 2) push screwdriver in against clips in seem at top front of dryer (where top meets face) and lift top up and off hinges at back 3) remove screws holding front of dryer to the sides of the dryer cabinet (about 1 foot down) and swing front down on hinges at bottom 4) lift dryer drum straight up out of the bracket at the back of the dryer 5) remove wires from the dryer element and heat sensor on the heater pan (about 4 and 1 o'clock respectively wires are on tight, may need plieres) 6) unscrew heater pan from back of dryer 7) remove heat sensor from old heater pan and put on new heater pan 8) screw new heater pan to back of dryer 9) replace wires to elements and sensor, you may want to "crimp" the connectors onto the tabs 10) replace dryer drum slipping back into back bracket, be sure that dryer belt is around drum as when you openned the dryer 11) lift up front so that drum fits around and is supported by flange molded into front 12) replace screws that attach front to dryer cabinet 13) replace top of dryer (put back on hinges at back and lower onto clips in front 14) put dryer belt back on pully and replace access plate.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Bearing Heating Element Assembly
  • David from Seattle, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum would not turn
remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt
  • jeana from houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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black streaks on clothes from failed drum glide and felt
first i used a flathead to lift up the top of the dryer. there were two prongs that you press in to detach the top.

then there were two screws on the inside along each side that i needed a phillips to remove. one screw on each side.

i also needed to detach a cable and cut the tie.
from there, it was easy to pull off the front of the dryer.

the first noticeable thing was HOW much lint there was inside! so out came the vacuum and away went all the dust and lint.. a TON of it.

then i used a sharp knife to remove all the existing upper and lower felt. that took awhile, and i got as much as i could.

then i applied the TOP felt, nice and center, and from there, the FELT was applied, which fit perfectly. I let it dry/set for about 2 hours.

for the Front drum glide, AN IMPORTANT NOTE! i ordered only ONE drum glide, but you need TWO! I had to order a second one, and i dont know why they dont come in pairs.. so the front drum glides snap on pretty easily to the front of the drum. press hard and they SNAP into place. once they are snapped on, you just put back on the front, replace the screws, re-connect and re-tie the cable, and close the lid!
Parts Used:
Lower Front Felt Seal with Adhesive Front Upper Felt Seal with Adhesive Drum Glide - White
  • Rodney from Mountain View, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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lint filter did not fit "squarely" into its place
replaced old filter, only to find that the new one had the same issue. After closer examination, I determined the filter guide that screws into place, which I had removed earlier to clean lint out, did not hold the lint casing correctly. I removed and reinstalled the piece that has the metal moisture sensors, and replaced it, ensure both screws held the lint casing as it should. Now I have two lint filters that fit perfectly! So, if you ever remove the piece wtih the metal sensors, make sure that the lint casing is screwed in correctly when replacing.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Jeff from Bethalto, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.
First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Chad from Glyndon, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer rotary plastic knob broke
This was really easy, the part is not identical to the one the dryer comes with however; it works just fine. I called the other places for repair knobs and they told me they had to have the serial number to get my part and the cost would be $20-$25 for the part plus shipping. Here it cost a whooping $13 with shipping included. I will never call those other places again!!
Parts Used:
Rotary Knob
  • Ebery from Bartlett, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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needed to stack dryer on top of washer
The directions provided were excellent. I just had to remove the washer top, two brackets on the front of the washer and replace with the provided brackets, and finally put back brackets back on the washer. Getting help, I than placed the dryer on top of the washer lining up the brackets and screwed the front brackets together.
Parts Used:
Dryer/Washer Stacking Kit
  • Grover from Kennett Square, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
28 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squealing sound Idler arm and pulley
This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.
Parts Used:
Idler Arm Assembly
  • Lewis from Thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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howling dryer. Wolves in the area would howl back!
Waited only 2 days for part. That was with REGULAR delivery. It usually takes weeks to get out to REMOTE northern Minnesota.
Unstacked the dryer took off the top. 2 screws to open front. Pulled 3 drum mounting screws. Pulled the drum. Removed the pivot. Cleaned (blowed and vacuumed everywhere). Cleaned the pivot receptacle. Relubed the pivot with high temp lube. Removed 2 motor assy mounting screws. Screwed off the squirrel cage. Swapped the motor. Remounted new motor assy. Looped belt over drum. Remounted the drum. Closed the front. Closed the top. Opened the belt access plate on the rear. Looped new belt over the tensioner. Closed the access plate. Restacked dryer. Turned it on. Sounds like brand new. Less than 2 hours. Saved more than $800. More than I generally make an hour! Actually I saved a lot more than $800 because I probably would have had to buy both the washer and dryer stack so it could have been around $2500.
Everything I ordered arrived in 1 box and all parts are right!
Now in my spare time I need to replace the bearings on the old motor and I'll be ready for the next time, in another 10 years!
Parts Used:
Drum Belt High Temperature Lubricant Drive Motor with Pulley
  • David A from Deer River, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum making thumping noises, clothes getting caught behind drum.
I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.
Parts Used:
Lower Front Felt Seal with Adhesive Drum Glide - White
  • Gerald from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not start. When turning on, I could hear faint humming, but the motor would not start.
1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Mark from Normalville, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the GEF331AS2
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