GDF650SSJ4SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The dishwasher was not heating anymore. I suspected it was the float/flood switch, so I got that ordered. I went ahead and ordered the element also and I'm glad I did! Even though the element was good, when I tested it I loosened the nut holding the element in. When I retightened it there was NO WAY for me to get it watertight again and it kept dripping out the bottom. Mine was made in 2019, and the gaskets on the element that came with it were a terrible design - the metal flange on the element was about as big as the hole in the middle of the gasket so water just leaked between the gasket "donut" hole and the element with no way to seal. The element I bought for this repair just in case had a totally redesigned gasket that sealed right up and didn't have the same design issue. So beware, if you are fiddling with the element in your process, be sure the gasket will reseal - or just have an extra new element in case it is the old (bad) design.

The flood switch was easy to find (with dishwasher on its back) in a white housing under the black circular sump.

Getting the actual switch out of that housing took some doing. I ended up using 4 small kebab sticks - toothpicks might work better- all 4 tabs have to be pulled out at the same time.

So I ended up changing out both the element (which was good but started leaking) and the float switch.

IMPORTANT!!! Before you put the dishwasher back in, you probably need to reset the thermal cutoff (TCO) on the back of the dishwasher. Follow the wire up from the element and it is the first thing it goes to. There should be a small (3mm) black button that has popped out. Press that back in. With your repair (float switch or element) it should start heating again - at least mine did.

I watched a YouTube video that showed how to to do this. The first trick is finding the right video. This one worked best for me / my model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sesf0BS8fzM

The first few I watched were for models with the user display on the top of the door, and you have to open the dishwasher to see it. Mine shows the display on the outside. Look for the video that has a round plastic "vent" on the inside of the door. You will have to loosen it with some sort of tool in order to remove the display once you get the door taken apart. In the video, they used needle-nose pliers opened wide. My NN pliers don't open that wide, so I used two screw drivers. Pealing off the display is a bit challenging. I was afraid I was going to break the little plastic pins that hold it on. The rest is not too hard though, and it went back together quite easily, even though I did break a plastic piece that 0ne of the UI Control Board screws goes into. Oh well, now it has three screws holding it instead of four.

Replaced transition piece, gasket, and vent cover. The root cause problem is that the factory installed gasket was too thick and would not allow sufficient thread engagement. The replacement gasket was about 25% thinner and worked perfectly.

We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

Disconnect the power and turn off water.I took the whole dishwasher out ,laid it on its side.I then unscrew the bracket that holds the pump in place.then took off the two hose clamps and took off the pump.I then installed the new pump with the new pump and hose clamps from the new kit I got.when I looked at the old pump I noticed it comes apart so I open it and noticed a toy ring gemstone price of plastic was stuck inside the pump.So at w I found out what the problem was.I was very happy that all went so wellin putting all back together and it worked. Thanks so much made me and wife happy.

Accessed YouTube video specific to my Model and replacement part.

https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE?si=3b0Dkk16WLl2e33D

As outlined above, the replacement took a first timer about 60 minutes to complete and resolved the issue.

Standard repair process to replace UI. The piece worth noting is the strange behavior on initial install. After setting the jumpers to the correct pins for my model based on the instructions, the board would initially not respond. It was only after i change the jumpers to a setting for another model and put power on the board that i got a response. I then set the jumpers back to the pins for my model that the board began to respond normally. Its been fine since.

Process of elimination and a visit to my local repair store told me it was wise to try the tub gasket, and according to partselect.com, it solved the problem a majority of the time. My local repair dealer agreed: Try it. They agreed because for them to replace a lower door gasket AND the $10 tub gasket... if they came out, the service call and parts would equal half the cost to replace the whole dishwasher. So I bought a tub gasket from partselect.com and replaced the old one. It worked, it was easy, so if your same make & model is leaking? Try it first. That's my advice.

A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!

The problem is described perfectly at the start of this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video, between 5:30 min and 7:10 min of the video, led me to believe it was the user interface module not the master control board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxPpRjxVyPo

This video showed me how to replace the UI board on my exact model of dishwasher.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2scYMl-0f8s

Followed video instructions and all went went well.

I follow a YouTuber who had a semillar GE dishwasher model number. He was very helpful through the repair process.

Very easy repair. Remove wiring harness that is a simple click. Remove 2 hose clamps. Take off the old pump and install the new one. It is that simple. It is way more work to turn off the water, unscrew the dishwasher from the counter, slide the dishwasher out, turn it on it's side, then have to put it all back in, with the isulation.