ESH25JFWEBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I had Sears comre and check it out. They wanted $188. for the part and wanted $211 to put it in. They had the part in the truck. The fridg is a GE Profile and only 2 years old. Told them to forget it. Took me literally less than 10 minutes. They did a diagnostics, cost me $77. they told me the problem. I ordered the part here. It came in 3 days and the directions included were awesome. straight forward. Nice to know there is a place to go to avoid getting the shaft from appliance giants. Thank You !

The details: removed the 3 screws, took a picture of the board, didn't need it, unplugged the 6 plugs. pushed 3 clipds holding the board, unscrewed the ground, removed the board, lined up the 3 clips and snapped the new board in place, replugged the plugs and screwed in the ground. Plug the fridg in, done. Literally that easy.

opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.

The refrigerator was staying in defrost too long allowing the temperature to rise to the point that part of the ice (probably some of the food too) to melt then re-freeze. I first changed out the temp sensor and thermostat because I wanted to try the cheap stuff first but that didn't fix it, I should have gone with the mainboard first as it was the most likely cause. After putting in the new mainboard in the thing has worked perfectly since. The board was extremely easy to change, take the metal cover off with a nut driver. Carefully unplug the wires from old board and remove the board. The board is mounted on some plastic standoffs that expand after passing through the board, some of these came out while i was disconnecting the wires but some were there to stay until I figured out that I needed to squeeze the top of them to release the board. After getting the old board out just put the new one on the standoffs and connect the wires. Put the cover back on and DONE!

NOTES: The new board had some extra connectors that my old one did not, but the correct connectors were still in the old locations. The instructions that came with the board did talk about making some modifications to the refrigerator wiring on certain models, but that didn't apply to me. If I remember right the models requiring modification were all bottom freezer type. But even if you do have to do this the instrucions looked easy, just cut a couple of wires, no splicing or anything.

My GE refrigerator emitted high pitch noise a short while ago. I tried different dampening methods that helped but not eliminating the problem. I finally replaced the fan, motor, and associated parts and solved the problem. The total cost was about $50.

Dispencer quit working a year ago, but still still dispenced water. I talked to a service technician about it. He told me the electric motor was froze up, so I orderd a new one. When it arrived I installed it in about 20 minnutes,tried the dispencer and still would not work but this time the water would not dispence eather and this time I noticed the fan quit running and the light went dim when I tried to dispence ice. So I read the customers diagnosis and repares every thing pointed to the main control board, orderd the part and water filter. When they arrived in three days I watched installing this part video and it took me 20 minnutes to install and every thing works fine.

Remove ice holding box. Remove rear plastic cover (nut driver) Unplug two Electrical connectors. Place unit on work bench. Remove 'U' fork, vice grip on shaft and scewdiver as lever on fork (counter clockwise) Remove motor fron plastic Holder. Install new motor & fork. Reverse removal steps. Actually very simple procedure. Usual cost for this typwe of repair is approx. $300.00.

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.

Followed video for replacing the ice chute flap solenoid replacement because getting to the ice funnel took same steps of disassemble. Looked at how the existing funnel was set in the housing, where and how one spring was located, where the switch and its activating arm on the ice funnel were located, took old one out and put new one in. Cleaned everything in process.

Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Part arrived in 2 days and took about 15 seconds to install. Great!! No more broken eggs!!

Just look at the parts diagram and follow the explanation. That easy. Still not dispensing water, so i think i need a switch since the water filter is new but no water.

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

I first replaced in-line water filter to the fridge. No ice. Then I replaced the water filter inside the fridge. Still no ice. I inspected the water inlet feeding the ice cube trays and it was froze up with ice. I removed the two screws holding the ice maker in place to remove the ice from the inlet tray. I then used a hair dryer to melt the ice accumulated in the in-coming water tube. Turned off the water and unplugged the fridge. When replacing the old water valve, I first blew through the hose feeding the ice maker to be sure that it was clear of ice. After re-attaching the water hoses and the electrical connections, I turned on the water, plugged in the fridge and turned the ice maker switch back on. Next morning I had ice cubes. Only mystery is I am not hearing the usual water noise when water is feeding the cube tray like I did before, - not to worry though if it works. My drawer is now full of cubes.