CLCE900FW2 Crosley Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I was hoping it was the drain hose but it wasn't. It's a front load washer so I pulled the kick plate in the front (2 screws) removed the three clamps and put the new hose on. Easy job, saved a hundred or so from the repair man. Part cost 35 bucks!

The tub is supported by two springs and two shock absorbers. First remove the back panel of the washer. Then I placed the auto jack from my car under the tub, alongside the motor, and cranked it up, lifting the tub, until the top of the seal in the front was compressed. Then I took the top off of the washer to access the springs. There are retaining straps over the top of each spring that I had to remove to get to the springs. Pulling up hard on the spring allowed me to get a pair of pliers on the spring and pull it out of the slot it was in.

Once it was out of the slot I could remove it from the tub as well. I put the new spring in and replaced the retaining strap. Then I repeated this process on the other spring.

Once both springs were in place the tub was hanging as it should and the seal around the door was smooth all the way around. I haven't seen any more leaks since replacing the springs.

Pulled the back off and it was right there. Hardest part was to get the belt all the way around the drive wheel on the washer tub. Found out that it wasn't just the belt. It is the shock absorbers that probably broke the belt, even though the belt was probably well over 15 years old. The bouncing and banging because of the absorbers being bad probably had something to do with the belt eventually breaking. Now, we need to replace the shock absorbers.A big thing to remember about the belt install....clean the drive wheel real good!!!

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

First, I unplugged the unit, then took out the hold down screw. Next I took off both snap rings and layed towels down. Pulled off both hoses. Finally reattached in reverse order. I did not have the problem of others with the snap rings they came off easy and went back on easy.

The store I bought the washer from was going to charge $150 service call and over $60 for the part. I searched on the internet and found what i needed at partselect.com. The part was under $7 and the shipping cost more than the actual part. 2 screws, 1 screwdriver and it was fixed. Thanks!

Disconect power, Removed top and front of dryer.
The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.

From previous responses on this site. I just followed their lead. If I had not found these folks, and the responses, it would have been a nightmare. It looked like and I thought the dryer came apart from the back! But in reality it comes apart from the front!! Absolutely fantastic site and help. Fast shipping, I ordered on Wednesday before Labor Day, didn't expect the parts until the following Wednesday, but received the parts on Saturday morning, and had the dryer back running by Sunday AM. Never even ran out of clean clothes!!!!!

removed top and front panel on stackable dyer unit. 3 screws at back of the inside of the drum, and the drum was out. installed new bearing and belt and all was good.

The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

Removed old guides ( some of the snap in fastners were broken off). REplaced guides by rolling drum, easy to snap in @ drum bottom each time.

I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry

I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.

The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.