Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly

1. Unplug unit.
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assembly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Using a screw driver I removed the spring loaded band from around the rubber boot inside the door. You only need to remove the band and then pull the boot from the bottom around to the side. You do not need to fully remove boot. Unscrew locking mechanism. Slide out to be able to see connections. Remove connections. Replace mechanism, reattaching connections into appropriate spots. Replace mechanism and rescrew in. Replace rubber boot by pulling gently out and working rubber V of boot under the metal slot. Once the boot is replaced, replace the metal band making sure the spring is at the bottom of the boot. Wahlah!!! Washer is working perfectly.

Codes did not point directly to the door lock, so that was a 50/50 between door lock and control board. With top of washer removed door lock is just a couple screws and 3 electrical connections.

Belt was worn and frayed. Belt replacement was tricky because new belt was so tight. Used vice grips to lightly hold belt on pulley while using screwdriver through spokes into tub back to ratchet/control pulley. Not too bad.

Works like new!

Went on line to your site , found part, read how easy it was for others to repair. So ordered part and replaced myself. I am a woman who's husband is not handy fixing things and it took me no time at all to remove and replace part. Thanks to others who shared how they did in this situation.Much cheaper to repair yourself. You can do it!!

Great advice on your site.
Repairman "found bad motor control board" and gave me an estimate of $316.00 to repair. I figured that the $80 gamble was worth a shot. Took the top screws off, slid the top back and in less than 15 min. I had a fully functioning washer. Thank you.

took out door lock and switch assembly replace with a new one and it work

I read the input of others who had this problem with this washer and how they had replaced the door lock and switch assembly. I figured it was worth the $70-$80 part versus the $540 repair or purchasing a new machine. I was really happy with the machine until this problem occurred.
When I got the new part.....I unplugged the machine. Took out two screws in the back of the top panel. Removed the top of the machine. Took out two screws in the front of the machine that hold the door lock ans switch assembly into place. I unplugged the three wires from the old part (be careful not to drop the old or new part....if you choose to do this by reaching in from the top like I did for this repair.....easier than removing the entire front of the machine.)
I plugged the three wires into the new part and positioned the new part in the door lock position. Replaced the two screws. Put the cover back on the top and replaced the two screws that hold the top cover on the machine.
I was thrilled when it worked perfectly. What a relief!
Sure glad I looked at this website and tried this! The repairman really didn't know enough about my machine....obviously. I'd like to call him and tell what was really wrong so next time he'll know.

this repair was easy, but it was repair #3.
#1: Fix-it guy said the front control board needed replaced. Ordered part from box store. Shoulda come here!
#2: Replaced motor control board. Harder to replace. Shoulda let the new front board run error code first. Again, used brand name supplier. Oops!
#3: Still not spinning. Error code "Door is open" but it's closed.
Remove door lock/switch assy, wires to the front board, and striker. 4 screws, 15 minutes. reached in through the top (did NOT unseat rubber around door).
Plugged wires into door lock. Inserted striker. Using multimeter on "Ohms" tested switch. No continuity=switch not closed.
New switch cost less, arrived faster. thank you Parts Select!

Watched video which was very helpful