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range would not recognize the door wasn't shut
I was required to remove the control panel to access the plug as it had been broken and the switch had been shoved into the unit . It would have been extremely simple if the plug had remained on the outside surface My son can now clean his dirty oven
Oven would start to heat then quit,checked the temperature sensor with ohm meter after cool down reading about 1100 ohms. I cleaned connection tried it again seemed to work well but quit again in just few days.
Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes OEM parts plug in same, works great
Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws. Saved $150 on a service repair call.
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
Dual burner would only work on high and only the large burner worked
Replaced the dual infinite switch behind the panel. The wires were easily matched, even though the switch looked a little different. Works perfectly now.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
The part I ordered has 5 connections and the part to be replaced has 7 connections. I had to ask a friend who is expert in electrical wiring to help.
My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections. Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
