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Frost and ice was building up on the top of the ice chute inside the freezer
There is a plastic flapper valve that is spring-loaded in the closed position that prevents ambient room air from entering the freezer compartment via the ice chute. The Ice Chute Seal is a simple flexible (rubber-like) disk that just slips over the circular flapper valve. With the freezer door open one can see the flapper valve down the ice chute and one can reach it easily from the outside of the freezer as well. The Ice Chute Seal has 3 notches that make it very easy to remove the old seal and replace it with the new seal. This can be done by feel. I removed the old seal by pushing the flapper valve open with one hand (from the inside of the freezer door) and could then peel off the seal surrounding the flapper valve with the other hand. Once the old seal was removed I slipped the new seal around the flapper valve. No tools required, no screws needed to be removed. The problem I had with frost/ice build-up was solved; there is no more ice/frost build-up inside the freezer near the top of the ice chute. The old seal LOOKED OK but was obviously a bit too stiff to seal the opening against the warm, moist, ambient room air. I was most happy to see that this solved the problem and that it was so easy to do (really less than a minute or two!).
original ice bucket plastic slides onto rack broke and wouldn't support full ice load
On several occasions the ice bucket had fallen inches onto other frozen foods and the auger wouldn't work. After dealing with this several times over a period of several years, I decided to see if I could locate a replacement which I did through your company; We took the old one out, unsnapped parts and then snapped the new bucket to the gate and shazzam, we were able to slide the new bucket into place and it works like new. Hopefully a repair won't be necessary again!
Water line feeding ice maker was not producing ice
Take out the elbow fill tube and check to see if ice build up inside tube. Clean tube of ice build up. Replace tube back in. In my case that corrected my problem.
pull open seal lift up release bottem catch push in to release top catch clean disk and installnew seal put back in the reverse of taking out dont take any thing else apart
Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.
Refer lights not working, there are two lights and neither worked. Decided the switch was the problem.
The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?
(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!
We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.
Followed the instructions in the video provided via email from Partselect However, the part received was the opposite design of the part removed. It appeared this could be left hand right hand choice of part. Moreover, the button on the switch that turns the light off/on when door is open/closed was not functional due to the part being the opposite of the part I was replacing. I tested the switch I was replacing and it appears this is not the problem. I think the light socket is the problem. I am 69 year old female and capable of doing small repairs, but limited knowledge of electrical so having to troubleshoot by trial and error. Thank you.
