6540A - Instructions

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

Hired someone. Note: I purchased two (2) hoses and (2) clamps -- this is the third time I am replacing a cracked hose. The manufacturer needs to use better quality and more flexible material for hoses.

I obtained the parts on line and began to install these. I was surprised that the ease of my installation was great. Each part was held by one screw. I used a phillips driver and found the under screws easy to get to by pushing the inside clothes drum to the side. A total of four screws was required for the replacement. This repair was so easy that a normal non-trained person can accomplish it. Thanks Admiral.

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Removing the old heater coil was a bit of a task as you need to take off all the brackets holding the heater coil and then remove the wiring from back of the coil. Installing the new heater coil assembly in the brackets and feeding the wirings back up to the top was a major task. Need to have long arms as the heater is located way back in the freezer compartment. The part was the exact match. The part was delivered in 2 days. Thanks alot. Will use your site again.

Turned out the defrost heater has burnt out in the freezer compartment on both heater tubes. To get to it. 1) take out all the shelves 2)remove the light bulb 3)unscrew 6 screws for back panel 4)Mine had a lot frost build up on the evaporator coils which I used a portable heater to defrost. which it took about 2 hrs to get all the frost thawed out. 5) Defrost heaters are located below each of the coils remove 2 screws on each plate there are 2 plates holding the heaters in place. 5) You may have to bend the sheet metal in order to get the heaters out and trace the wires to where it connects to towards the top or the freezer. 6) Put in the new heaters and plug in then put back together. 7) I also replaced the Defrost thermometer which it is easy to replaced while I had it apart. Now the fridge works perfect just like new.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

I'm a 69 year old female. My husband isn't very handy so I decided to order the parts and do it myself. I didn't know how to take the machine apart so I just moved the washer part so I could unscrew the screw. I dropped the screwdriver between the adj. and side of the washer. I guess you won't be telling this story. I did get the parts on and the lid is working and so is the machine. Valerie Guyot

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

I watched the video of the repair on this website and followed it. Was really easy & THANK GOD because this was my first repair. This has been a great machine and it looks like it will continue to be for a little while longer! Thanks for the video help and friendly navigation of your site!

We followed the instructions show on the video. However, our model was assembled slightly different. We had to remove the screws from both sides of the side panels so that we could remove the tub from inside of the machine. Also our model only has one belt not two.
Over all it was easy considering my husband and I had never attempted to repair a washer. Once we got it back together it when back to working like it had never been broken!
We would have never been able to repair our washer without the video that your site provided... thanks so much!!??

Sure wish the manufactures would consider making the older models again as lots of us are not happy with the new modules being manufactured presently!