6540A - Instructions

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.

Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

if you move the agiatater all the way to one side you can acess the star screws from under the hinge then push the agitator to the other side and acess the screw on the other hinge , you dont have to remove the top of the washer, let me say i did not have the serial no and the people at part select were very helpful and pacient when i called and they got me the RIGHT part the firdt time.thanks again for all your help the job came out perfect and saved me a lot of money for a repair man. ASHER

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

First pull out frig and unplug. Shut off water valve. I just had to remove two screws to disconnect unit from bottom rear corner of frig. Pull element out just a few inches and disconnect the plug that feeds it electric. Disconnect water hose and reattach to new unit. Reconnect electric plug and reinstall in back of frig, securing with two screws. I have an older appliance, so I had to jury rig a bit when reattaching new unit by drilling two new holes for mounting. Also, I had to buy a new water hose because the old part would not accept the standard female end of the hose to connect to. Home Depot has the standard icemaker hoses with two female ends. These two glitches would probably not apply to a newer appliance, but anyway, it's cranking out the ice just fine now! Sure I saved alot of money, even with the extra $10 investment for the hose.

I read some stuff on the internet where folks with the same problem replaced the water inlet valve to repair this same problem. So I did the same. However, after I installed the new water inlet valve, the problem was still there. It was at that point I decided not to guess at the what issue was and instead test the components in the washer. Yes, I am a lazy dumb ass. There are many of us out there. I decided to use a continuity tester to test all components in the hot water fill circuit and determined that the water temperature switch was bad. So I ordered a new switch from Parts Select (they rock - it showed up next day) replaced the water temperature control switch and...walla. fixed!!! Only took about 30 minutes to replace. Lesson learned: Don't be a dumb ass and guess. Test.

I removed four screws to remove a plate to get access to the pump. Then I removed 3 screws to remove the pump. I then put the new pump in place and put the 3 screws back in the pump. Then I put the plate back on and put the 4 screws back in. Then I put the belt on and put the washing machine back in place and connected the water lines and drain line and plugged the washing machine back in and then tested the washing machine to make sure it worked. Job completed.

Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.