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compressor clicking but not turning on
I just opened up the fridge back panel accessed the old relay/capacitor, pulled it out, replaced with the new one, snapped it back into place, tested it (compressor came on), replaced the back panel and went on my way. Really, really easy repair.
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
I found a similar problem in your forum and desided to give it a shot. The evaporator fan had stop working. It took me a while to find it but I discovered it inside the bottom drawer. I took off the drawer to make it easy to get to. I took off the back cover and there it was. I unplug it and replaced it with the new one which did not look like it at all but since it was the one that I received I pluged it and it worked. I was very satisfied. Thank you again for helping save money.
The controsl on my Triple Cool Climate control were not responding. I could not turen off alarms or change temperatures.
First I removed the plastic light shield. That snaps into place. Next I removed the plastic facade which snaps in from behind. It has plastic mounting points, I had to use a long straight screwdriver to do this. Then I unplugged the old board and replced with new.
about half my time was spent figuring out how drawer front and back panel were held in: remove wire baskets lift freezer drawer front to remove remove ice maker...held in by 3 screws,then unplug remove back panel screws then on this model, there is a vent towards the top of the panel that is held in by unseen plastic clips on the top left and top right that had to be pressed in with a screwdriver to remove unplug freezer evap motor also held together by clips remove and replace motor (old fan blade pulls off and slides on new motor shaft) plug motor back in reinstall back panel reinstall ice maker reinstall drawer front and baskets
Had to replace a hose connector at the base of my refrig/frreezer
Perhaps a helpful hint:
When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection. I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.
Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.
Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.
It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.
The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.
The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.
Unpacked, inspected, found two minor defects in the form of two tiny slivers along the seal edge which I cut with a small scissor, laid the seal down on the kitchen table, applied heat to the deformed areas and reshaped them with my fingers, heated the entire seal lightly, removed the old seal starting at the right hand upper corner using my fingers, installed the warm seal starting at the top corners by pushing it in its slot making sure the outer lip stayed out of the slot and worked my way around. I believe that the heat from the dryer made it pliable and easier to manage.
Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.
