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403111 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the 403111
16 - 30 of 416

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Wheel fell off dishwasher rack, landed on heating element and melted.
64 of 126 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stacey from Spring, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.
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Lost A Wheel For Dishwasher
64 of 126 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LINDA from OCALA, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks
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The wheels on our dishwasher were mis-shapen and broken
62 of 124 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lori from MANHASSET, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!
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Top and bottom rack were rusted thru
32 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Warren from Stillwater, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Bottom rack - slide the old one out, slide the new one in. The rack came came with the wheels, so I didn't use the replacement ones.
Top rack - remove the rail end caps - they will likely break so order new ones. Slide the rack out. Remove the rotating spray arm and then remove all the brackets. I was able to re-use the old brack ets and didn't need the replacements. Install the old brackets on the new rack, install the spray arm, and slide the new rack back into the rails. The new top rack also came with wheels installed, so I didn't use the replacement ones. Once the rack is back in the rails, install new rail end caps. Put them in sideways and facing into the washer. Straighten the caps and turn them into place. Be careful with the rail caps - they break easy and are expensive. Make sure they hold the top rack in place, and that's it.
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Leak from the bottom center
31 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ashraf from Merrick, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.
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plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open
28 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Margaret from Meridian, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great gra ndmother...
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Power surge burned control panel up
26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Gilbert, WV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The control panel is located in the door of dish washer, first make sure that the power is knocked on unit, take about 10 or twelve phillips head screws out from inside panel of door, unplug power wires from module , reconnect wires to replacment module and reassemble door, really easy to repair, saved me a bunch of money.
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cap was melted
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Doon, IA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replaced it
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Soap dispenser latch broke - never worked right
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Lincoln, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!
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Leaking Dishwasher Door Seals <4 yrs old
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DJ from Franklin, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......
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Metal cover broke off of lower spray arm and gluing didn't work.
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Holland, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Turned spray arm while lifting upward to remove the old part. Place new spray arm over the water outlet and turned with light downward pressure until properly seated.

It less time to do the repair than it took to open the box and unwrap the part!
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Part broke after wearing out
16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Maple Valley, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
pulled the racks out, replaced the broken parts....easy job
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The bottom rack had broken wheels and rusted prongs
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MONICA from ENCINITAS, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.
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Dishwasher leaking at bottom-Seal deteriorating.
17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Connie from Turlock, CA
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The seal slides out to the side, but the diswasher had to be pulled out from the counter and the entire door had to be taken apart to do this because the hinge was in the way. In taking apart the door, we opened the front panel by taking out the screws along the sides and disconnected the computer connections. After loosening the hinge, we were able to slide the old seal out and the new seal in. When putting the door back together, it was difficult to reconnect the computer connections while holding up the door front, as these ribbon wires were quite short. We did get it back together and working except that the connection to the display light now doesn't work because it probably became disconnected as we put together the door. Also, the door now is not completely level when open making the bottom tray slide in. This is probably because we got the springs too tight. These things can be fixed, but will wait for another day.
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Growling/vibration noise during the wash cycle.
18 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter from Maple Grove, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Hint on determining if the Main Conduit is the cause. Place a tapered flat piece of wood (wooden spatula) between the Main Conduit and rear of the dishwasher wall and remove any excess play.
Run the wash cycle and determine if the noise goes away or is reduced.

Removal and Replacement of the Main Conduit Assembly:
O pened the Dishwasher door and removed the lower and upper basket.
The upper basket required the two rubber gourmets on the front of the rail to be removed by inserting a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of white farthest tab towards the rear of the dishwasher of the rack slide end cap (PS2370502 – Item 652) and twist the screwdriver while gently pushing the top of the tab towards the rear of the dishwasher and gently pulling on the end cap (The rear tab needs to clear the upper rack slide).
Repeat this process on the other upper rack slide and remove the upper rack assembly.

Using a ¼ inch socket driver, remove the Main Conduit (PS651676 Item 585) screw located in the back of the Dishwasher wall and the screw from the upper spray arm (PS260547 Item 570) located on the roof of the unit.
Remover the lower Spray arm by gently pulling up and turning it counter clockwise.
Remove the fine filter hub nut (PS259078 item 454 ) by turning it counter clockwise and the fine filter (PS259068 item 452) The fine filter has a small tube going into the bottom of the dishwasher base that should be removed at the same time of the filter. Be sure to position it correctly when it is reassembled.
There is also a small stainless washer in the bottom of the fine filter housing. Take care not to loose it during the assembly and disassebly process

Remove the Main Conduit from the plastic assembly in the drain of the dishwasher by turning it counter clockwise. (Note, the new Main Conduit Assembly comes with this part pre assembled). Remove the same plastic piece from the new Main Conduit assembly by carefully lifting the clip on it.
Install the new piece back in the drain and tighten just prior to being pointed toward the back of the dishwasher.
Reassemble the Main Conduit to the drain piece and tighten it the remainder of the way and reassemble all parts in the reverse order they were removed.
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All Instructions for the 403111
16 - 30 of 416