22305 - Instructions

The repairs were very simple we just disconnected one screw then removed the old one and replace with new one. The left side took a little longer, because of the 8 screws we needed to remove to take the back panel off. But once we had it taken off the replacement was a snap. Nothing to it.

removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.

First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.

I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.

Easily removed the old knobs and applied the new ones.

Replaced the element. The part came the next day which was great. Good customer service!

The door came off easily after I removed the two hinge covers that are attached to the oven. Taking the door off can be done with one person but ideally two.

The new parts fit in perfectly and the hinge pin used for shipping comes out easiest with a pair or wire cutters (you do not cut it just grab it and pull).

After that, re-assemble the door and drop in place. It was a snap.

FYI...the shipping was ultra fast and the price was great.

No issues whatsover with the entire process.

Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.
It's easy job.

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

removed the wooden cutter block rt side top and the air exst.vent guard lf side then with a phileps driver 2 screws holding the control knob assm.in. both control knob assm.rt&lf come off the same way. just scraped out what that was left of the old lens stuck in new one and reatached light bulb holder. this bulb holder presses on and slides side ways to lock in place. then snaped control knob assm. back in and tighten the 2 screws. replaced vent guard & wooden cutter block. all was done.

replaced old worn silver and white control knobs with new black ones.

just installed

Pulled out electric heating element and replaced with new. I have had this frustrating problem for 2 years and after replacing the elements they now work like new! My only question, why did it take me so long to replace???

It was very simple. detached front switch panel by removing 4 screws inside top of oven door. Removed knob from old switch and removed nut holding switch to panel. Rotated switch panel to expose guts. replaced wires from old switch to new switch, screwed new switch to panel, replaced old knob. idea came from previous story at this website. Works great.

perfect