Idler Arm and Shaft WP6-3705180

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

All I need to replace was the water pump and motor. All went very well no issues after viewing the video's. I was amazed how easy it was.

This was a pretty easy repair. The idler wheel bearing was bad and I replaced the wheel, the two drum support rollers, idler arm and belt. The video for replacing the idler wheel was spot on for my model and made it easy to complete the job. My thanks to PartSelect for a great repair experience.

I looked up my problem online and everything I saw said to change the roller wheels that hold the barrel of the dryer. After doing that (twice, once on each side) I was still having a horrible squeaking sound so bad that we were waiting to do laundry until we were leaving for a while. Finally I determined that the problem was actually the idler wheel. All I had to do was remove the bolt holding the idler arm on (it's the arm that has a spring connected to it that moves to allow the belt on or off) and put the new arm with the new wheel on. The dryer is now whisper quiet and works perfectly.

First of all I looked at the Video, which made it a lot easier. I decided to replace both rollers, the idler pulley, the idler bracket, and the belt so I should be fixed for a while. Installing the parts was not that hard. When installing the drum turn it by hand to make sure their are no binds, this will also insure the belt is not twisted and the felt around the drum is installed correctly. The hardest thing was getting all the panels back together with the right screws. Use a small screwdriver to line up the holes. Parts Select resources on their web site make it easier for the handyman to complete this repair. Parts were in Stock, at a fair price, and received in two days on normal delivery. I will use you again and give you a 10 on your service....

Removed power to the dryer by turning the dryer AC breaker in the breaker panel "off". Removed dryer door and front panel with phillips screwdriver and/or nut driver. Removed spring tensioner from idler arm and shaft assy. Slipped off drive belt and removed idler/shaft assy with 5/16 open end wrench (or maybe 11/32, don't remember the exact size). No need to remove drum, you can get both hands in there, also used a flash light and mirror to locate the mounting screw. Mounted the new pulley on the new shaft assy, using the old washers and clip. Glad I ordered the shaft assy because it was scored up pretty bad. The pulley just has a bushing/sleeve, not a roller bearing. (I put a tiny dab of light gease on the shaft before mounting the new bearing.) Replaced the shaft assy, hooked up the spring and replaced the belt onto the pulley. Reassembled the front panel and door and was good to go.

1) Took off the front door of the drier (first unscrewed it in the sides, then lifted the door to lift the hinges up and pulled the door off)
2) Pulled the front panel down and off
3) I checked the belt to see if it was broken and it wasn't
4) I tried to turn the drier barrel manually to see if I can move the belt... it didn't move. Not knowing if there was just too much resistance, I tested the drier while looking at the motor and motor pulley as it ran.
5) I noticed that the motor pinion rotated, but the belt was slipping against it... that's why it smelled. The rubber was burning
6) Then I found that the idler pulley had stopped rotating, and the belt actually cut a channel into part of the plastic... That's when I realized that I had to replace at least the idler pulley.
7) Not knowing whether the bushing and other parts were going to be salvageable, I ordered parts for the whole assembly... but I wasn't sure how to best approach the repair...
8) Then I found partselect.com, and they had both diagrams of the assembly, all the parts easy to order, and best of all, a video of someone actually going through this repair! I was dumbfounded! :)
9) For swapping the parts I just watched the video on how to pull out the drier barrel... the only difference is that I didn't see a need to unplug the cables from the front top panel before removing the drier tumbler. (Obviously the power was turned off :P)
10) when I removed the barrel, I swapped the whole idler pulley assembly, just keeping the original spring.
11) Put everything back together, and it ran like a champ!

The video helped me save a lot of time though... it showed me how the whole thing is most easily serviced and made the repair a breeze!

The repair was very simple, the information video was a very big help. Followed the steps just by watching the video. All the parts came apart and back together as stated in the video. Cannot be any easier. I used all the parts I order, but all it really needed was the drum support roller kit (noise) and the idler pulley (worn pulley). Dryer is quiet once again. WooHoo.

On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reversed the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.

Warner

Followed directions provided in video which are very clear and helpful. Took your expert about 15 - 20 minutes, but in reality it takes about an 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours which included cleaning out the whole cabinet area. Did not need the idler arm but did not want to find out after taking everything apart that a new one was needed.Also suggest drawing a sketch of how the belt goes around the drum,idler and motor for reference when reinstalling.