ZSC2001CSS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Easy slip in to 2 hinges

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replace the fuses

Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.

Removed cover. Found oven flame thermal cutout and measured across the terminals with an ohmmeter. Found no continuity. Thermal cutout wasn't allowing a complete path for input line. Ordered the oven cutout and 2 days later I installed the new part, re-assembled the oven cover and Voila! Fixed. Simple repair saved my friend from having to purchase a new microwave.

I had a bad cut off sensor on oven cavity I ran the Microwave with nothing in it and it smoked I ran it for another 6 months then 1 day I was heating water and it stop- working. I put a new tube in might be Okay but I was not going to risk it taking another cut off sensor on overload. You have to change sensor and put on a new tube. Clearly it would be cheaper to buy a new unit but it was only 2 years old and I am an old tech and was curious. The sensor cost only 16 bucks new tube about 55 a replace brand new oven 81 bucks there you have it I was stubborn and going to get that sucker back into operation I had another oven go out the same way

Remove the back cover screws and remove back/top. Locate the thermostat and remove the two Phillip screws. Cut off old scorched terminals and replace with new terminal connectors on the wire ends and install new thermostat and reassemble.

Took off cover , unpluged switches , took off switch assy, off/on test hooped and howlered for about 5 mins .Then laughed about other sites said could get those switches. Just wanted to say I LOVE Partselect. Super fast del , great price. JUST AWSOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I pulled out the unit and found 2 interlock switches that are depressed when the door closes. After cycling the door open/closed I found that one of the switches occasionally would stay depressed. The repair was easy (after I took off the panels so I could get to the switch) I simply removed 2 screws that attached the interlock switch assemblies to the main unit. Then I popped out the defective switch and popped in the new one. This did indeed fix my problem.

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

20 month old GE m/w had made "electrical" smells from beginning. Finally unit failed to turn on. Disassembly was easy except that I needed to buy anti-tamper screw driver bits from Sears to remove two screws. Found the blade connector to the sensor was a loose fit, resulting in severe heating at the connection. Plastic connector was melted and sensor was damaged to the extent this seems a possible fire hazard. Replacing the sensor is trivial, and requires removing one Phillips head screw. Reterminating the defective connector requires basic electrical skills; wire stripping and crimping. Be sure to clip a few millimeters of wire to get undamaged copper. Be sure to replace both connectors if connections feel at all loose. M/w reassembly is trivial.

it work ok now

bought a fuse but that didn't solve the problem. Guess I need a new microwave

The part had to be rotated to fit then screw was replaced. Only tricky thing was that the screw was the security allen type with a small post in the center. Luckily I had a set of them from installing similar bolts on license plates.

Installed new one. I do not know if these rings can be repaired