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ZSC2001CSS
ZSC2001CSS General Electric Microwave - Overview
Models starting with ZSC2001CSS
Click on the best match to narrow your results.
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FUSE
PartSelect #: PS1481237
Manufacturer #: WB27X10928
This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
$10.58
In Stock
Secondary Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
$45.34
In Stock
Primary Door Interlock Switch
PartSelect #: PS237015
Manufacturer #: WB24X10047
This interlock switch is located in the door latch.
$33.44
In Stock
Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS1481517
Manufacturer #: WB36X10328
Sold individually. Appliance may take 2.
$26.65
In Stock
Turntable Guide with Rollers
PartSelect #: PS228014
Manufacturer #: WB06X10304
This roller guide sits underneath the glass turntable tray.
No Longer Available
Oven Cavity Thermal Cut Out
PartSelect #: PS1993849
Manufacturer #: WB27X10985
Also known as a Sensor or Fuse. This part will trip once the inside of the cavity overheats and exceeds the recommended temperature.
No Longer Available
Turntable
PartSelect #: PS227932
Manufacturer #: WB06X10219
Also known as rotating ring assembly.
No Longer Available
Cooking Tray
PartSelect #: PS7783326
Manufacturer #: WB49X10246
NOTE: This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance and size but is a functional equivalent to prior part.This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures.
No Longer Available
Oven Cavity Temperature Cut-Out
PartSelect #: PS235672
Manufacturer #: WB21X10046
Also known as fuse.
$44.06
In Stock
Common Symptoms of models starting with ZSC2001CSS
[Viewing 5 of 5]Won’t turn on
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No heat
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Doesn’t shut off
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Touchpad does not respond
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Tray won’t turn
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the mic ... Read more rowave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the mic ... Read more rowave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
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Parts Used:
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Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
953 of 1228 people
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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
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this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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Parts Used:
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Marla from Arlington, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
310 of 370 people
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Some smuck put a metal object in company microwave
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Jacob from Brewster, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
73 of 133 people
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