YTW4514PN0DG General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the control panel back plate cover. Removed the 3 screws that held the water control valve in place. I then unplugged each solenoid one at a time and plugged it into the new control valve. Once all wires were transferred, I pulled the old valve up and put the new valve on. Then reinstalled the screws that held it down and reinstalled the cover plate. Very simple job !

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

part select help

I removed the back panel at he top of the washer, then remover the two screws that hold the top control panel in place. Then I removed the three screws that held the water valve in place. I removed the valve from the water ports and then disconnected the four electrical connectors. I plugged in the new valve and plugged the valve back into the water ports. Reinstalled the screws, control panel and the back panel. Very easy repair, anyone could do it!

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

Replaced the agitator.
Very difficult to remove..Have to apply force and pull.
Theres no bolt inside if the fabric softener part that needed to be adjusted...

Upper portion of auger spins on bottom portion so they need to be locked together with a screwdriver to twist off counter clockwise. Good instructions here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr4GzTJBho0&vl=en. Someone needs to hold the tub while another uses the strap wrench to turn the auger counter clockwise. Should pop off with a bit of force. New one pops on easy.

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.

I ordered a drive belt later to go with this repair which I wish I had done when I ordered the speed sensor and saved shipping. I think that was the real culprit. I had get customer service to help me with the part number because it wasn't listed on the parts list.

I set washer to drain and spin empty to get as much water out as possible. Tilted washer on its side on top of two thick cushions so was about a 15 degree angle off the floor and didn't spill leftover water in the drum.
I took the protective cover off using socket wrench for the 3 bolts. There was belt shreds all over the bottom. Took off smaller drive wheel with socket wrench in order to get to speed sensor. Speed sensor is connected on the motor frame. I used two small flathead screwdrivers in the slots to unsnap the old part. Cleaned off belt debris. Connected the new speed sensor wires first then should click into place. Put drive wheel back on. Put new belt on small drive wheel and lined up grooves. Note that the new drive belt will be smaller than the old one. I found the easiest way to get the new belt on is to hold it on the small wheel and start wrapping the belt on one side of the large wheel and rotating the wheels which is going to turn the drum. Sort of how you would rechain a bike which shows my age!
Put protective cover back on.

The last thing I did was since I had access to the bottom of the drum was to clean out the pressure line port which can lead to spin issues. It is about half an arms length up the side of drum above the drain hose. Its a small gray tubing attached to the drum. Pull the tubing off and it reveals a little port that can get clogged. Use your1/16th drill bit and put in the port about an inch to inch and half and clear out the port. Re-attach the hose firmly.

Machine working as good as new and clothes are almost bone dry now!

Took off belt/motor housing and replaced belt. Put housing back on. Very easy.

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

I contacted parts select and entered washer information and asked them if they thought they would now what the problem was and and they responded with a answer and also a list of two parts that they thought might take care of the problem. I ordered the parts,looked on u tube to see how to change them and replaced both parts .I think the clutch was good but the drive belt was stretched and needed replaced.Know it works great.