YE224LM Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

I pulled front off drier old wheel was easily removed because it was broke in half. New wheel fit tight and took a little effort to get new wheel installed. Installed retaining clamp to shaft and vacuumed out lint before putting front back on.

Released lid clips, two screws removed to remove the front. Took tension off of the belt by removing it from roller, then lifting tension spring from base. Removed drum to gain full access to motor. Lubricated rollers, vacuumed all areas to remove lint. Replaced motor and belt. Re-installed drum and re-attached tension spring, dryer face, and top. Works fantastic. Hard part was getting spring released and reattached due to location.

I took apart the dryer by unscrewing the top and the front, front comes off by just undoing the two top screws on the inside. I figured it was something to do with the rollers since the noise was ciclycal. The hardest part was to put the drive belt back on. It helps to have a second person for about 5 minutes.

I followed the posted directions from others, and it was a breeze. They were really helpful. I would just add the step of keeping the drum in place with a block of wood underneath before removing the front. Slip the belt around the drum, reattach the front , and then finish positioning and tensioning the belt once the block is out of the way .

I went to repair the dryer belt only to realize that it was jumping off the pulley(edge was worn away). If you are replacing the belt, make sure your pulley is good before you order your parts. I ended up having to go to lowes and make a pulley!
Works great though.

Unplugged dryer.
Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet).
Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse).
Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses.
Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads.
Replaced the heating coil.
Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads.
Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm.
NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.

Unplugged Power Cord, Removed Duct.
Pupped Top Lid Loose to Reveal Door Panel Screws. Removed Door Panel to Discover Blower Wheel had Disintergrated @ the Shaft..
Located Part from On-Line (as have in past) and
Placed Order, On-Line ( Of Course ).
Received Part, via: Fed-Ex in Two Days..
Whoo Hoo. Whole Family Welcomed the Repair.
ThanX . Satisfied Consumer :)

well, the hardest part is getting this thing apart - you have to take out the lint trap and remove the two screws from the top. Then I was trying to lift the top off - it's held in place by clips so you have to gently but firmly lift it off from the front end and let it open while still semi attached at the back (like a chest). Detach the electrical wires - they are just clipped in place. Then remove the screws (one on each side) that attach the front panel, and (and this is the hardest part if you don't know how it's attached). You have to SLIGHTLY LIFT the front straight up and then pull it away towards you. I just pulled it off, breaking the little attachers, which I subsequently had to weld back on with a welding compound and leave it overnight to set. the next day was pretty easy though...

The spinning drum is pretty easy to get out and you set it aside. Then I saw the belt pulley sitting there on the bottom of the dryer out of place -- fortunately with the belt there came instructions on how to instal it - READ THOSE INSTRUCTIONS - after that it's cake - put the belt around the center of the drum and feed it through the other parts underneath (this is easier if you tilt the dryer back a bit to get at it better. And you must pull back on that pulley after you have put it in place again - clips into the bottom of the dryer - it's supposed to have a lot of tension on it. Put it all back together and voila!

good luck!

After reading some tips on the parts select site I isolated the high limit fuse and thermostat as the likely problem. The overheating was caused by a buildup of lint in the exhaust fan area. after clearing the obstruction, and replacing the fuse and switch I tested the dryer which worked perfectly.

Removed old blower wheel and installrd new one. Had a little trouble installing the new blower as the bore was a little small. Had to drive the new one on the shaft. Now the dryer works fine. Many THANKS for the prompt shipment.

First, I printed one of these responses which were excellent and very detailed. The screws connecting the lint slot to the top of the dryer was frozen. Taking the front panel off was difficult because I did not read the instructions I printed out very well. After I took the top off I had a hard time finding the 2 screws located inside on the top of the front panel. They are located to the far right and left at the top. To take off the front panel you have to push it up to release the clips on the bottom, then it comes right off. Taking the drum out was easy. What was difficult was putting the belt on. There wasn't any slack and to put it around the pulley and the drum for me was difficult. After that is was a piece of cake. It works great.

i pop the top of the dryer lose and removed the 2 screws that held the front on and installed the new belt and put it back to gethere

Followed the instructions and the repair went like clockwork, took less than an hour. I spent more time brushing and vacuuming old lint from the innards of the machine than I did doing the actual repair. Finished up $0.78 richer, too, from the change I found inside the machine.

Was a little hard getting at the idler pulley being it was behind the blower assembly, but it was the only draw back.

followed video except for the second fuse deeper down it was easier to take a piece of string and loop it around the top of the holder so it would not rotate toward the bottom due to the size of the hole for the fuse. hold string loop until bottom of bracket is in place and press top into place as you remove looped string...