WRF555SDFZ00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed and disassembled the broken frame. I cut a six inch piece of coat hanger and folded in half and crimped together. Then I took pliers and made a hook that I hooked into the metal strip in the back of the refrigerator that holds the upper shelves. After replacing the frame, center rail and glass I bent the wire up under the back of the frame to provide a support. The back of the frame is weak and has no center support.

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

It was easier than I had anticipated. Just had to make sure that I was very careful in removing the old part so I did not break any of the good plastic that I needed in order to install the plastic temperature control to the new part.

I removed and replaced the right pantry end cap, as well as the drawer lid.

First I removed the pantry drawer; then the two crisper drawers and glass shelf. Then I removed the hex screws that held end cap in place. Removal of cap from refrigerator was complicated by the adjustable temperature control - it is loosely attached at the back of end cap and also has to be removed to get cap out. Gentle persuasion accomplishes this. Getting the slider off end cap also a bit difficult. Then I removed the drawer glides. Reversing all steps was fairly easy and the rest of the "fix" went well. I wished that there had been some written directions - or at the very least, a diagram of how all went together. All in all was still cheaper than repair person.

Don't try and remove the front/handle from the broken pan, you will break it and its double the price of the pan, just use the small hammer to break the pan into smaller pieces and remove handle from them then the handle will just snap onto the new pan. Piece of cake!

I safely unplugged the power from the refrigerator first before starting the repair. I then had to remove the bottom access panel which is secured with hex head screws, then disconnected the two plugs from the two failed parts that connects to the appliance compressor. After installing the replacement parts and returning power back to the refrigerator I buttoned up the access panel and I waited at least three hours to turn the cooling system back on. This allows the coolant in the compressor to settle. The two replacements parts fixed the cooling system.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

First found U Tube video of my exact refrigerator, ice maker remove and replace. Many available, all are helpful. Watch several times. Once part arrived the repair went very smoothly. Only had some difficulty attaching the ground wire, had to loosen the auger motor to attach the tiny screw. Not difficult, just took a bit of time to get the angle on the screw correct.

Open and remove door by loosening two screws on both sides of the door. Lift up and away the door.place the door on flat surface, grab and lift up on seal pulling out of reach. Clean track, alone seal on food before pressing in place. Check to make sure seal is set in place. Install door job done.

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

you tube video was most helpful. after getting new part and disassembling old ice maker, you have to change out the wiring harness. Reinstall ice maker, don't worry about the timing of the unit as it will do this itself, may take 10 hours to produce ice, mine took about 2 hours to go through its' cycles and give me ice. It is running great

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Pulled the whole assembly out and unscrewed the Ice maker and old wire harness loose. pulled one wire at a time loose and put the new one in place one wire at a time so not to get them wrong. Then the ground wire I cut and stripped and used a wire nut to connect the two green wires together. Otherwise you would have to take more things off to get to the 1/4 nut on the ground wire. Then put the three screws back in the ice maker bottom.Slid it back in place and plugged in the new wire harness. And put the plastic cover back in place to cover the wires. You can also look on U-Tube to see how it is done. They just do not show the new harness I was sent. I guess the ice maker I got fit other models.