WLP83800 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Watched video and followed the very accurate and helpful instructions. A #2 Phillips screwdriver was the only tool required. This is an easy job for the average person.

There are already good instructions here on doing the repair, so I will just add what I found important. 1) using penetrating oil and an impact wrench on the screws that hold the inner glass to the inside of the oven door - they were rusted tight. 2) the outside glass front sits on the front of the door, on top of the edges of the side pieces, even though it looked to me like the side pieces were meant to go over the edges of the glass - they aren't. The bare side edges of the glass aren't covered with any trim at all. The video on removing the oven door that matched the kind of hinges I had showed taking them off the door as part of disassembly of the door. I didn't find that necessary at all, and you probably won't either. Less parts to have to get back in place. The hard part to me was finding the correct disassembly video to match the oddball hinges, which isn't to say it's a bad design - actually it seems better that the other more common designs. Take out the two screws above where the hinges enter the range, and lift the door up, away from the range, and off. Easy peasy.

Video's did not show my door construction so I had some difficulty and surprises. One must disassemble and keep all parts in order of disaasembly with all screws for each part.separated. Be methodical and patient and it will all work out.

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

Replaced damaged drawer roller: easy peasy!

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

removed door from range and slowly took apart until reached inner glass. there are three pcs of glass, front and two inner. was able to clean the inside which was dirty after 15 years of use. took alittle over an hour from start to finish including thorough cleaning.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

First I turned off the power. Next I disconnected the downdraft vent. Then I removed the cooktop knobs and turned it upside down on the counter. I then removed about 12 screws to remove the element housing. I then unsnapped the old element, disconnected the 3 wires, replaced it with the new element, replaced the housing and screws. I replaced the cooktop, reconnected the downdraft hose and turned on the power.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

After reading what other people did for this job I figured I could do this. The inside glass broke after liquid accidently hit the glass from basting.
Just followed the digram from the internet to show how the door and glass comes apart. The only thing I had to figure out was how to take the door off. And once I figured that out it went pretty easy.
The door comes off just by lifting up on the door and pulling out. Just make sure you put all your parts in order on how they come apart and just replace them them in that order.

We removed 4 screws that let us raise the top of the stove. It was then very easy for my husband to remove the old burner and replace the new one. By ordering this part from you and installing it ourselves, we saved $248 from the quote we received from our "Maytag Repairman". Can't beat a deal like this and it was so easy.