TFH24JRSAAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

Researched on internet/you tube; ordered part, and did the repair. Easy to do and saved the cost of a service call.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Since I really needed to replace the deteriating auger I used the original ice bucket and transferred the new auger assembly into the old ice bucket. Looked complicated at first, but make it work and my refrigerator is now making nice clean ice. It would have taken a lot longer if I sent the new bigger ice bucket back and it was my fault. With the videos and pictures on line made the replacement of the auger & ice bucket easy. Thanks Bill

Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

Replaced dispenser door flapper by following the do it yourself video in this site. It was really easy. Just be careful when removing the dispenser black bezel. I broke one of the little tabs when taking it off.

There are Great videos on YouTube!!! Turned off power,Removed trim ring, Pushed a philips head screwdriver in one of the holes underneath the electrical panel with the selector push buttons. This releases the electrical panel. There are Three wire sets with plugs. I removed the plugs and took the electrical panel out. Removed four Phillips head screws and pulled out the big paddle switch. This then exposes the flapper. Replaced flapper with new one and reassembled everything. When I had everything apart, I cleaned with window cleaner. It was pretty moldy from the water leaking. Turned power back on and tested everything to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Works great

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

I just followed the instructions on the video and it was exactly as they said......no surprises.

I noticed the top defroster wire had shorted out. What I think happened was the Defrost Timer failed 1st, the the ice grew in the freezer till it contacted the wire on the top defrost heater causing it to short out. So 1st I unplugged the refrigerator and unloaded the freezer into a deep freeze I have. I also took a couple plastic milk bottles filled with water and froze them in the deep freezer. I used them to keep the refrigerator section and food there cool while I waited for the parts and for the cooling cooling evaporators to thaw. Once I received that parts, I disassemble the freezer, removed ice maker, shelves, etc. to get to the defrost heaters. I replaced the defrost heaters(very straight forward). On the right side of the metal shroud, the gasket was missing so I used a door sweep from Home Depot and 5 small round head bolts with lock washers(round head bolt toward evaporator) to seal along the right side. It is critical that the airflow be correct else the cooling and defrosting will not work right. Reassembled the rest of the freezer pieces I had removed. Then I replaced the defrost timer in the refrigerator section following the "parts select" video. Note: On my refrigerator, the timer, air temp valves and shroud come out as 1 piece. The video on the unit showed them as 2. No problem. You just take out 1 screw on the top back and gently work the piece out. Follow the instructions to rotate the timer past the loud click. I added 45 degrees after the loud click. Reassembled. Applied power. All has been working correctly without issue. For $130 in parts, and a couple hours of my time, refrigerator repaired and again working great vs shelling out $2,000+ for a new one. How did I know it was fixable ? As long as the cooling is working as evidenced by the frost buildup on the evaporator, it is repairable. If your cooling is dead, the refrigerator is dead. Yearly, I use a scuba tank to blow the dust off the condenser coils. If the heat exchange on the condenser coils is impacted by buildup of dust, dirt, hair, etc., it makes the compressor work that much harder and longer and leads to burnout and premature failure. This refrigerator is 23 years old and again going strong.

I removed the plate covering the water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser, removed the nut holding the 5/16" tubing to the valve and took off the tubing and nut. I did not need to turn off the water supply or unplug the unit. I removed the kick panel in the bottom front of the refrigerator, replaced the existing plastic fitting with a new push-on fitting, then spliced the tubing coming from the water chiller to the valve where the leak was thus bypassing the broken tubing with new tubing. I reassembled the valve using the original plastic compression nut, replaced the cover and ran the water dispenser while checking for leaks. The water dispanser works great with no leaks.

We only needed the rear plastic cylindrical helix. After installing it, there was a squeal of metal on metal due to insufficient clearance between the rear moving blade and the Ice dispenser plate.

Refrigerator Ice Maker 7/16” (or ½” hole, stainless steel) washer just behind #334 Rear Moving dispenser Blade PS292310 to give clearance so it doesn’t hit #345 / PS292441 Ice Dispenser Plate.

This was my first time at doing this so it took longer than someone experienced. But, it worked!

Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated