SVE47600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Just a couple of minutes to left off the cover grid, left out the old filter and drop in the new one.

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).

Removed the 4 phillip head screws that hold the trim plate on the bottom of the display panel (and you probably could skip this step).
Next, I removed the knobs from the front of the display panel.
Then I removed the 4 phillip head screws that were located (1 each) behind the knobs.
Finally, I removed the 4 hex head screws from the bottom of the front panel.
You caan then remove the panel a few inches and remove the two cable connectors.
The trick part is to get the flat ribbin cable disconnected. If you squeeze the two small tabs (one on each end of the connector), the connector moves up and spreads open to CAREFULLY remove the ribbon cable.
The clock assembly has just two hex head screws holding it in place. Remove them, and reassemble everything in reverse.
If you did everything correctly, you should have a very bright stove clock again!

Just placed it at the filter location. Liked the ring feature on the filter for ease of removal for cleaning. My previous ones didn't have such feature. Thank you for filling my order. I bought an extra filter for the future. I'm a big user of my Jenn-Air range. I may soon be needing to replace my griddle. Will be contacting your company then.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

After viewing the diagram on partselect.com, I knew this would be easy. I first shut off the circuit breaker to the oven, then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the plate securing the element. Once removed, I disconnected the two wires, and removed the old element. I then connected the two wires to the new element, and screwed the plate back into place. I then switched the circuit breaker back on and tested the new bake element which was working perfectly. This do it yourself repair saved me time and money not having to call and schedule a repair man. Thank you so much partselect.

Was about to spend 2000 on new oven and decided to check here. At least 15 stories with same problem and solved. Add one more.

Only thing new to me was ribbon connector. Didn't really pay attention when I disconnected from the old assembly. When you squeeze the ends of the connector, part of the connector itself rises up to release the ribbon cable. Remember this when reinserting the ribbon cable on new assembly. If I hadn't followed the "If you have to force it, it ain't right" rule it could have gone bad.

I simply lifted off the grille in the center of the stove, pulled out the old filter and dropped the new one in. It sits at an angle (right side down, left side up) rather than slotting in to a particular spot.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

After attempting to order this part from Whirlpool twice and twice receiving the wrong thing, found correct part on PartSelect in about one minute. Shipment came fast and the repair was very simple, under five minutes. You just pop the pieces in place and snap the piece back onto the oven.

The front oven control panel was already in need of replacement. The digital readout had quit working sometime ago, so we began by replacing the control panel as well as the temperature probe. Neither of these items did the trick. Next I replaced the HI/Lo sensor switch. This replacement was a bit more labor intensive. Have to remove several screws and remove a large portion of the top of the stove. Once access is gained to the hi/lo switch, it takes (2) minutes to replace it. This of course did not take care of the problem either. Finally I replaced the bake/broil/convection circuit board. This was a bit of a job, only because of the amount of wires to and from this board. I litterally took a picture of the board (from this web site) and drew in the wires and marked them by color and noted where they went. I then merely unplugged each wire and with one screw, removed the board and installed the new one. After plugging in the wires as per my picture, SUCCESS. The board did the trick. Over all, it was not bad doing the work myself. I know we saved a lot of money my doing it ourselves. Just gotta have patience.

First I turned off the electricity to the stove.
I then removed the 4 burner dials from the front panel. Then I removed the 8 screws under the front panel. Removed the triangle side pieces - 1 screw each. Slowly pulled the panel down and out and turned it face down so there was easy access to the back of the digital clock. Unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the clock and replaced it. New clock worked perfect. NOTE: Included in the repair - I cleaned and repainted where there was grease and rust.

Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.