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Oven Wouldn't Heat; Broiler Worked Fine
We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.
Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
1st gen whirlpool Duet dryer sensor not working in automatic cycle. After ordering the moisture sensor harness which is about 6-8 inches long, I removed the lower panel and it is right there. I disconnected the two wire connectors in the upper left and I need a small screwdriver to disconnect the two pin connector which was a bit of a pain but once replaced I no longer had to use the timed setting to dry clothes and this will save me electricity.
Lower oven Igniter wouldn't heat up and fire the propane.
Called repair man and described the problem. He said I could do it myself. PartSelect had the part and a previous description on the PartSelect site told me how to do the repair. It was easy. Be careful when removing the igniter nuts. I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil so as not to strip the threads. works great.
Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.
Oven was overheating and locking the door. Codes indicated the temperature sensor could be the issue.
Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board. Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part. Thank you!
One burner would not light automatically, needed match to use
Unplug the electrical cord. Remove all the grates and burner caps. Remove the two philips-head screws on each burner. Slide the plastic putty knife under the cooktop in the front to locate two clips. Push in to disengage clips and lift cooktop up in front. Disengage cooktop from the rear of the range. Remove the bad igniter from the burner head and replace with the new, Disconnect the wire from the spark module and install the new wire. Replace the cooktop by securing the rear first and then lowering into place until the clips engage. Replace the philips screws on the burners and the caps and grates. Plug the range back in and you are done.
Door handle of stove's oven broke. Had problem finding handle until I contacted Select Parts.
The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.
The igniter for the front left burner was shorting out at the base of the ceramic preventing the burner from lighting.
Unplug the stove. Remove the burners. Release the top of the stove by using a screwdriver to push in the spring clips on each side of the stove top. Pull out stove to access the back of the stove. Remove the back plates. Identify the defective igniter wire and remove. Install the new igniter wire. Screw the back panels back on. Snap the stove top back in place. Reinstall the burners. Push the stove back into place and plug in the stove. Test the burners. One precaution - make sure you do not move the gas tubing under the stove top out of position. If you do, make sure you put it back in line with the gas valves.
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564