S136 - Instructions

Replace filter

First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

The job was easier than I thought it would be. Turned off power at breaker first! Used phillips screwdriver to remove 2 fairly tight screws located on the vent side of the switch mounting plate. Flipped over plate and wrote down the 4 spade tip wire colors and location on switch. Removed the wires from the switch and removed the switch by prying off the locking washer with a sharpened/filed thin putty knife to get under it and then a flat blade screwdriver to finish removing it. Put the new switch in, hooked up the spade tip wires, mounted the plate back on and turned on the power. Worked great and I even impressed my Wife!

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

Installing the new switch was EASY. However, removing the old switch was very difficult due to the nuts holding the switch in place being designed as clamps not threaded screws and nuts.

Cut power!
Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.

Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.

REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.

I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days.
The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.

My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.

Go Girls, you can do it!!!!!!

After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on.
Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws
and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw
tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.

Important: 1) ALWAYS REMOVE ALL POWER FROM THE STOVE. 2) Do not "preassemble" the ceramic recepticle and wire kit. The wires are nearly impossible to remove from the receptacle once inserted. The wire colors have changed and are not the same color as your old wiring. 3) All the fasteners are sheet metal screws, different sizes (note where they are used) and are easly stripped if tighted too hard. Either unplug the stove or open the main circuit breaker to the stove. Take out the right-hand burner cartridge and place it aside. remove the center screw and metal strip from the old receptacle (you will reuse this item). Loosen the control panel from the front of the stove by opening the oven door and remove the four screws holding the control panel in place (Screws are located on the underside of the control panel). The panel slides down about 1/4 inch and tilts forward exposing all the control wiring. Ues a hex-headed driver or large screw driver and remove the drain plug from the drain pan. Use care as there is a small gasket under the drain plug. Remove the four screws holding the burner's pan to the stainless steel stove top. Move the wire bundles aside and GENTLY pull the burner pan half-way out of the stove (it is a tight fit but do not use force. Remove the screws and strap holding the old receptacle from the pan. Withdraw the pan from the stove. (good time to clean the pan and drain plug) With the old receptacle now exposed, assemple the new receptacle and wire harness wire for wire carfully replacing each lead. The new wire harness is inserted into the new receptacle thru the top of the receptacle and will lock in place within the new receptacle. The blades on the end of the wires must point toward the slots in the receptacle. The receptacle wires will be pointing down. Trace each wire and be certain the correct wire is switched out with the proper lug on the control knobs within the stove (needle nose plyers will help but do not force the connections). Gently push the pan halfway back into the stove and attach the new receptacle to the pan with the small metal strap across the back of the receptacle with screws. Push the pan all the way back into the stove and re-attach the pan to the underside of the stove top with sheet metal screws. Re-install the drain plug and drain tube. Tilt the control panel, slide the panel back up into the front of the stove and reattach the control panel with sheet metal screws. Re-install the small metal clip into the front of the receptacle (one end of the clip slides under the stove's stainless top frame). Reenergize. Reset the clock. You're done.

removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of ordering. Wife happy therefore so am I.

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

Move stove out from wall. Unplug from power. Removed four screws from the left side of the back (the side the light socket is on. Reach in and unplug the two wires on the back of the bulb socket assembly. Inside the oven, remove the bulb cover and the two screws holding the socket assembly. Remove assembly. Install bulb in new assembly, reattach the assembly to the oven back, reinstall the bulb cover. On the back of the stove, replug the two wires and replace the screws on the stove's back cover. Replug the unit to power and move back into position.
Sounds harder than it is. The worst part is reaching inside the oven to get at those bits.