S105 - Instructions

The element plugged in to the cook- top.The cook -top was working moments after i unpacked the element. thank you.

Jim B.

My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!

Got a no-name tailor-it-yourself replacement switch from a San Jose, CA appliance parts store; but the switch was so cheaply made that it fell apart when I tested it.

Got a RobertShaw part from PartSelect and now the burner works perfectly.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

Opened the oven door and locked the spring hinges in the opened position with two 10p nails. Removed the oven door. I dismantled the component parts of the door. I then removed and replaced the broken glass unit,reassembled the door, slid the door onto the hinges, tightened two screws to lock the door in place, removed the 10p nails, closed the door----- and that was it. Less than one hour. The job was accomplished using only a Phillips screwdriver.

First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.

In principle it should be easy to replace the broil element in the wall oven, after unscrewing the supports for the back and front of the element (see other postings for details). The difficulty is with the ground screw, which is inconveniently only accessible from behind close to the back wall of the oven. A very short phillips screw driver is required, but designed so that good torque can be applied for unscrewing and replacing. The newly designed ground connector on the latest replacement elements makes life a little easier, but still be prepared to work slowly and carefully to complete the replacement. Note the new ground screws supplied only work with a flat-blade screw driver, not a phillips-type.

We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.

The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected.

It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.

Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!

First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 5 inches so I could reach and pull off the wire clips from the old element. I then attached the wire clips onto the new element and pushed back the wires into the insulated area and when the back plate matched up to the screw holes, I re-inserted the screws and tighten them down. The oven works great.

I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

The oven that was in out newly purchased house was a JennAir and over 20yrs old. Worked ok, but as with any heating element, the performance wanes over time. I decided to replace the baking and broiling element...and the oven door seal while I was at it. Everything went well, it was a simply remove/replace. Then I bumped the oven door where it was leaning up against the fridge waiting to be reinstalled. Down it fell on the tile floor. SMASH! Tempered glass EVERYWHERE. Got online with PartSelect and ordered a replacement (very reasonable price). It arrived in 2 days...just like the elements. Replacement was easy. Thanks to PartSelect for having the parts in stock and delivering them in record time!

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.

Motor (Blower Motor Kit) Part Number: PS1569907
No instructions are included in the package from PartSelect. Disassembly from the main housing was relatively simple. I found that paying VERY careful attention to how the original motor was wired and mounted would pay off in correct re-assembly, conquering motor vibration and rubbing. Most of my project time was spent cleaning the rotating blade wheel from 20 years of grease build-up. On tools, I would have appreciated the inclusion, or availability as an accessory, of a long-stem correct-size allen wrench (used in removal of the fan blade wheel.) The job went well, and probably saved me $200 in service call and labor.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!