RF434R3 General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the plug from wall socket.
Removed door to oven by lifting it straight up while partially open, in locked position.
Remove Baking shelves.
Removed 2 screws @ the back of element where it goes into the ovens back wall with a nut wrench and gently pull the element towards you until wires are exposed.
Using a flat blade screw driver hold on to the end of the element near the end with the screw and support it as you un screw the wire so the end of the element does not bend as you turn the screw.
After both wires are removed, remove the old element.
Install the new Element in reverse.
Very Easy!

the replacement items fit really good. It was a matter of remove and replace,

Just lifted the electric components Remove drip plans and trim rings and replaced with new drip pans and trim. Your company was incredible in there delivery of the parts..One day. You made my husbands very happy.

Ordered new burner and drip pan. New parts arrived within 3 days. Removed screw holding the hinge, removed clips from porcelain insulator, removed old burner, then installed new burner, reinstalled tilt lock hinge, replaced drip pan and ring and set burner in place. The whole installation took less than 10 minutes, and it works perfectly.

Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.

The bake element was completely missing from the stove. There were two wires sticking out of the back of the oven, one with a terminal on the end and the other with the insulation still on and no bare wire showing/ The right side mounting screw was there..

The left mounting screw hole on the oven had been drilled out oversized, so I drilled another hole in the mounting plate above the original., after attaching the element with a single screw.

I removed the one screw, removed the bake element and pulled the electrical wire without the terminal end. Next, I put a terminal on the wire and attached the wires to the element. Finally I installed the element with the two screw into the rear of the oven.

Unfortunately the element didn't work, so my next step is to trace the wiring and determine if a switch or thermostat might be faulty. I have checked the continuity of the wires from the bake element to the thermostat.

More in chaper two..

The repair was pretty easy. I unplugged the stove and took the 2 screws out that secured the element into the back of the stove. I then used a pair of needle nosed pliers to pull the wires off the element that wasn't working and then attached the wires to the new element. I then put the screws back in place securing the element to the stove and it was done. It took me about 5 mintues and the element worked immediately.

Before ordering the new part, made sure the problem was the burner and not the wiring in this very old stove by putting an ohmmeter on the terminals of the burner after removing it. Since it showed no conductivity, the burner was bad (could have put the voltmeter on the wires and turned on the power to ensure power was coming in......but did not want to mess with 240 volt/high amperage. With power off at the breaker, installed new burner. One caution... since the wire on the burner terminals is pretty soft, don't bend them by putting too much torque on the screws. This turned out to be my only problem.....I had to clean up the screws and work them through the copper terminals with the burner outside the oven before attempting to screw them on the wire connectors in the oven. Not a big problem, but if you bend the terminals too much when you install the burner in the oven, you run the risk of shorting them together, or breaking one. And that would be a big problem.

Oven unit went well and is working. Tilt burner unit was wrong and did not fit. Needs to be replaced by 8 inch tilt burner with four input.

unscrew two screws pull the old element out put in new one and screw back in . We had to wire it direct because our oven had quick connect connectors and this part did not. But it was no big deal and didn't take any time to fix.

The part arrived ahead of time by mail. I removed the old coil, very simple,, I installed the new one just as easy , Turned on oven and it worked prefectly , its a very simple procedure, thank you

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.

Because of the age of the oven it took a little time to loosen the screws that held the element in. Once the screws were removed it was a matter of pulling the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then it was a matter of repeating the steps in reverse. Very quick and easy