RB536*P4 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 2 inches and disconnected the two wires.

I reconnected the two wires to the new element and screwed the new element to the wall of the oven where the element was held in place.

The delivery of the part was within 3 days.I only had to connect the two screws had biscuits that night.

It was realatively simple, turned off the power to the oven, removed the bake element , by loosening the two metal screws in the back of the oven, with a nut driver and removing the screws, then pulling the element outward, to expose the two wires ,that were connected to the element, using a nut driver to remove the two screws and a pair of pliers to hold the wire connectors, then removed the old element. Installed the new bake element, by connecting the two wires to the element, with the two screws, then pushing the element back in place , attaching the element to the back of the oven, with the two metal screws, finished with the installation, turned power back to the oven , and tested to make sure the oven worked , all done.

I ordered the bake element on Monday and received it on Wednesday. Great delivery.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...
Then I installed the new element using the steps above in reverse. Very clean and simple. One tip though...open your oven door slightly to the detent and pull straight up. The door slips off easily and allows easy access to the bake element screws.

First removed screws then removed burned out element.Replaced with new element and replaced screws and cooked pizza.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I reattached them to the new element screwed it back in place and I was done. Could not have been easier! Getting the right replacement part the next day after placing the order was a pleasant surprise. This is the second time I used your company and I am very impressed with your service. I recommend you to everyone I can. Great Job!

Tried contacting GE and no luck, they did not have vintage parts. After searching and locating Partselect, I was able to see a pic of the actual replacement part. I wasn't sure about purchasing online (1st timer) but decided to go for it!

I was able to track the package, although FedEX was setup to deliver to my resdient, I had the package addressed to my office but we worked that out also and walla.

I was very please and now I can bake my famous Pot Roast again. The oven was not working for 8 mos.

Good Eaten!

SJ-Long Beach CA

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

It was so easy, we got on the General Electric web site and entered the old model number, found our match and ordered the part. It came 3 days later and it was so easy to remove the old one and install the new one, only two screws to remove. Saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves! Thank goodness for websites like this!!

The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwise the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.

I removed both screws to remove lower element, and measured it prior to ordering the replacement.
Then in a few days it arrived, and I installed it. The new element had small bolts rather than screws the original used to attach both wires. A flashlight was necessary in locating an keeping an eye on the wire ends, to keep them from being pulled inside the back cover, as the bolts were attached.

Element was in two pieces so it was obviously dead. I disconnected the stove from the power, I undid the two screws at the back of the oven and gently pulled the element out. There was enough slack to reach and pull the connectors apart. Done. I ordered the part from "PartSelect" and it arrived the next day. Unfortunately I ordered the element with "Screw" convectors as opposed to "push on" connectors. I bought a couple of connectors and cut off the original connectors from the wires in the oven and replaced them making absolutely sure they were well and truly tight. Two screws cam with the element from "PartsSelect (Thankfully). Connected the wires and screwed it back into place. Stood clear, plugged it in and turned it on to max. Worked just fine, Thanks