PGR4410CDW Maytag Range - Instructions
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old bulb fused into old socket.
removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Reno, NV
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 11 people
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replace igniters
Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.
Parts Used:
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David from CHESTER, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
2 of 2 people
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Oven does not heat but broiler works
Oven and broiler have two seperate igniters. Broiler worked but oven did not heat. Oven igniter located under metal pan at base of inside of oven. remove pan by lifting, and remove completely from oven. Igniter under this pan and held in place by two srews. Remove screws, unplug from cable, replug in ne igniter, replace two srcews and pan, and you're done! this part cost about $50 and I installed, last time Sear replaced =$300.
Parts Used:
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Francis from delavan, WI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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My igniter burnt out. My oven stopped lighting up.
I ordered a new igniter and when it arrived, i removed the door from the oven. It just lift's off. I had to removed two screws from the bottom plate to gain access to the igniter. Remove the two screws from the igniter and unplug it from the back of the lower back of the stove. Place the new igniter where the old one was and plug it in. Put new screws in and tighten them down. Put the bottom plate back in its place with screws tightened. Put oven door back on and turn on the oven. That's all there is to it. Your done.
Parts Used:
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Alfred from BUDA, TX
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Parts Used:
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Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
5 of 11 people
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Oven would not maintain set temperature.
1. Closed gas valve at stove supply outlet.
2. Unplugged stove electrical connection
3. Unplugged electrical connections to defective valve
4. Removed 4 screws on burner side of heat heat shield
5. Disconnected gas inlet to defective valve
6. Removed 2 screws holding valve retainer to bottom of unit
7. Lifted gas burner inlet tube while pushing valve toward rear of unit - - - (a bit tricky)
8. Removed valve from rear by tilting forward so valve outlet clear the burner inlet tube and heat shield. Heat shield is not removed, but must be raised enough to allow passage of the valve outlet protrusion.
9. Installed new valve by repeating the preceding steps in reverse.
10. Reconnected gas and electrical, and checked performance
2. Unplugged stove electrical connection
3. Unplugged electrical connections to defective valve
4. Removed 4 screws on burner side of heat heat shield
5. Disconnected gas inlet to defective valve
6. Removed 2 screws holding valve retainer to bottom of unit
7. Lifted gas burner inlet tube while pushing valve toward rear of unit - - - (a bit tricky)
8. Removed valve from rear by tilting forward so valve outlet clear the burner inlet tube and heat shield. Heat shield is not removed, but must be raised enough to allow passage of the valve outlet protrusion.
9. Installed new valve by repeating the preceding steps in reverse.
10. Reconnected gas and electrical, and checked performance
Parts Used:
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Charles from Hardy, AR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 people
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No problem
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Gordon from LYNDEN, WA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
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Bad Gasket
I just twist the burner, pulled it out, disconect the two wires. Reconect the wires to the new burner and placed back .
Parts Used:
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javier from Santa Ana, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Oven would not maintain temperature
First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!
Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.
Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.
Parts Used:
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David from Fresno, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
2 of 3 people
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I needed a broiler pan
I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.
Parts Used:
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Rhoda P. from Secaucus, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 9 people
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Faulty oven igniter
Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.
Parts Used:
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joseph from CLARKS SUMMIT, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
2 of 3 people
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Original burner was eroded on the bottom and flame was coming from undernealth the burner
Very easy. I disconnected the original burner with one turn as well as the two wire connections for the electronic igniter. I then connected the wires to the same positions on the new burner and placed the new burner in place with one half turn to match the indented openings to secure the burner tightly in place.
Parts Used:
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Joe from Staten Island, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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corroded burners
Unscrew the burners an install new ones! Anyone could do this.
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Daniel from Can Francisco, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 3 people
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Replaced burner
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Ramiro from Bernalillo, NM
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Wrench set
2 of 3 people
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No spark at any of the 4 stovetop burners.
UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!
Parts Used:
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Ronald from Berkeley, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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