PDWT502V50II General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

After determining that the leak was coming from the sump connector, I had to completely remove the unit from the counter. After removing all the parts in the wash cabinet (wash arms,conduit,fine,course and sump filters),the sump connector nut was revealed which I loosened, but did not remove, with a channel lock plier. The unit was then placed up-side down where I then loosened all the worm clamps that attached the drain motor,pump,and turbidity sensor to the sump and sump connector.then I removed the brackets that braced the pump to the washer body and removed the pump.at this point,you should be able to remove the drain motor and turbidity sensor from the sump and remove the sump from the washer. You should also be able to remove the connector as well.Both these items are made of some type of rubber which seems to deteriorate from the soap which was caked all over them in my case. Just reverse the above process to re-install everthing. I didn't find this job terribly difficult and it was certainly better than spending hundreds replacing the unit.

took apart lower spray wand cleaned filter noticed sump basket tube to be decaying flaking apart sump filled with white grit and flakes had been using Cascade all it's life and had no problems till new formulation of Cascade and then had all the problems. Steps to replace sump basket #1 turn water and power off to dishwasher #2 disconnect water line, drain line, and power cord #3 remove dishwasher from cabinet #4 open door and remove both upper and lower baskets (upper basket comes off when you remove the end plastic pieces(push in the button like piece from the side of the track and remove the end piece on both sides and the rack comes out)) #5 pull up and off lower spray wand be sure you remove the stainless steel washer that they use as a bearing for the wand #6 remove round white nylon nut(fine filter nut) that holds screen assemble in #7 remove screen by pulling straight up this also has a tube that inserts into the sump #8 remove the main conduit assemble from the pump #9 remove the upper spray wand (center screw)unit should come off #10 remove main conduit from dishwasher #11 remove sump screen cover (you may have to squeeze together to remove #12 remove inner sump basket ( it is held in place by 2 molded catches on either sides of the basket you will have to release these or just pry the side together and lift out) #13 sump cover and basket may break in removal but not expensive parts and will have to be remove before lower dishwasher bottom (perforated screen) can be removed #14 a shop vac to suck out remainder of water from sump may be helpful since now you will have to close door and turn unit upside down #15 lower sump connects to the dishwasher housing by a screw clamp, along with a sensor connection, to the pump intake, and the discharge pump #16 after all clamps are removed and the sensor removed pull the sump off the dishwasher body (note a oval ring inside the sump this mush be retained since it does not come with the new sump #17 assemble in reverse order (NOTE BE SURE TO INSTALL THE OVAL WASHER IN SUMP PRIOR TO PUTTING SUMP BACK ON DISHWASHER BODY and MAKE SURE YOU PUT LOWER DISHWASHER SCREEN (YEA THAT PERFERATED STAINLESS STEEL BOTTOM ON BEFORE YOU PUT THE SUMP SCREEN IN) Also clean and flush the fine screen from any food it may have trapped, the wands flush to make sure your spray ports are clear and not plugged. I replace the sump with a new sump screen and sump cover since they are a little different in the new design from the old. I also dumped Cascade and switched to Finish dishwashing soap it still has some phosphates in it which helps cleaning immensely

Found numerous references on internet that most likely cause was due to a fouled or plugged suction screen. I unscrewed anchor tabs on top securing the dishwasher to the countertop, slightly lowered the front screw legs, turned off circuit breaker at the electrical panel, checked to verify the power was off, removed the small electrical cover under the dishwasher and disconnected the 3 wire nuts, pulled the dishwasher partially out, then disconnected the small corrugated drain hose from the discharge pump under the washer being careful to collect small amount of drain water in a bowl. Finally, carefully pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop leaving the hot water supply hose connected. Tipped washer over onto back (the frame rails are rounded in the back to help facilitate this). Had to unscrew the hose clamps to remove the rubber sump. Then stood the dishwasher back up to disassemble the plastic screen parts from inside the dishwasher. The screen was in fact plugged with white slimy deposits that when dried became chalk like. During cleaning out the white caked on deposits in the rubber sump, I accidentally pushed my screwdriver through a rubber vent stand tube and this is why I had to buy a new rubber sump. The sump rubber material appeared to be partially deteriorated which is why my screwdriver passed through it. Reassembly wasn't very easy. It was difficult to get the rubber sump boot over the plastic flange on the bottom of the tub. It helped to remove the metal hose clamp completely and to have someone hold the dishwasher in place lying on its back while I pushed and prodded to get the rubber seal over the oval flange. Once on, everything went back together easily in reverse order. It probably took me a total of 6 to 8 hours of real working time. But taking into account that I only worked for short periods of time on evenings after work and the fact I had to lug around my extra 70 lbs of gut, the constant laying down and getting back up, the 4 day wait for the new rubber sump to arrive, and my near senior citizen age stretched this 8 hours of work out to a two week home repair project. BUT, I was successful and everything is back to perfect working order. Thank you Partselect.com for having the sump in stock and to my door in only 4 days!

Had purchased SPRING DOOR, CABLE ASM, and HINGE CABLE PULLEY prior to starting repair, as I did not know which piece had failed. Cable assembly was the culprit. SPRING is heavy duty steel, HINGE CABLE PULLEY is nylon, and CABLE ASM (assembly) is braided steel with a steel plate at one end that ties into spring and an inadequate nylon piece that ties into the steel hook on the door. The nylon piece failed through tearing open. REPAIR STEPS: 1. Removed bottom cover plate at front. Two hex head nuts. Nut driver works best but Phillips head screw slots are on nuts. 2. Removed dime-sized cover plates located on either side of main unit where door seals when it is closed. Used Phillips head screwdriver to remove screws that are screwed into cabinets flanking dishwasher. Magnetic tip will help keep you from losing these between dishwasher and cabinet as they are too short to project through the access hole when fully unscrewed. 3. Lowered appliance feet using adjustable pliers. Slip wrench would probably work but six-sided appliance feet are slippery. 4. Loosened drain hose clamp from disposal and removed drain hose. 5. Shut off water line to dishwasher (under sink) and disconnected water line with slip wrench. Steps 4 and 5 were done to give me the slack I needed to pull dishwasher out from cavity far enough to access the side where the repairs were to be made. You may or may not need to do that--try pulling dishwasher out first and see how far it will go. 6. Looked at the problem, which was failed cable assembly. 7. Removed nylon Hinge Cable Pullley with nut driver. This allows cable removal. 8. Put cable back into place (loose) and then replaced Hinge Cable Pulley. 9. Reattached cable to spring on back end and door hook on front end. 10. Pushed dishwasher back into position. 11. Raised appliance feet to proper height. 12. Reinstalled side screws that hold dishwasher against cabinetry. 13. Replaced small screw cover plates. 14. Reattached drain line to disposal. 15. Reattached water line. 16. Turned water on and checked for leaks. 17. Reattached bottom cover plate to front of dishwasher.

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

Pulled out the old gasket and replaced with the new gasket. Inserted the steel spring clip into the ends of the gasket. Repair complete.

Remove door cover shell by removing screws in inside of door. Unplug harness to control module.Remove outer door shell.Remove four screws at the blower motor. Replace with new motor after disconnecting harness to motor. Reinstall module harness reinstall door shell.

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.

Removed two pieces on bottom, pulled dishwasher out changed a cable and put it all back together! It was a little plastic piece that broke! Thank you for you quick response! Ordered one day came two days later! Great service!

I began to notice a loud grinding sound when my dishwasher blower motor kicked in (mostly at the end of the entire washing cycle). It was obvious where the noise was coming from (upper left side of door). Ordered blower motor / fan and replaced it. Problem solved! When taking the front panel off, be very aware of all screws. There is a screw on the right side of the door that screws inward. It holds the control unit. If not removed, the control unit screw hole will break off and it will be difficult for you to secure the control unit. Be aware that there are two small screws that point UP below the front panel. Be sure to remove those too. Take pictures of the wires before disconnecting from the control unit. It's fairly obvious, but cheap insurance if needed when reassembling. The fan motor in the upper left of the panel. There are a large gray venting unit above it. You will need to remove that unit in order to expose the screws to remove the fan motor. Once removed, replace the fan motor and work backwards to connect everything again. Possibly take a few moments to clean the inside of your door panel to remove any hard water build up from any moisture that leaked into your door panel. Hope this helps.