PB930SL1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

remove the 4 screw from the back of the control panel take the knob from the front and remove the two screws then raise the rear panel cover up. you can pull the switch from there make picture note of where the plug ups are for replacement its cool

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Disconnect plug from outlet from stove.Remove nob from control switch rem 2 small screws to release switch.Go to the back and proceed to rem back panel with 1/4 nut driver.Pull out switch and replace one lead a time.

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last was feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.

Remove (4) screws for top of control panel rear.
Remove control knob for burner and (2) phillip screws
Remove control switch from rear
Reconnect new control

Started by turning off stove circuit breaker on main electrical panel. Pulled stove out to allow access to rear panel, removed rear panel to access the infinite control switch. Next I took a picture to show where wires were connected to original switch. Removed failed switch from front panel, disconnected one wire at a time and connected them to corresponding connection on new switch. Reinstalled new switch to front panel and rear panel to stove. Pushed stove back in place and turned stove circuit breaker back on. Tested the new switch and all was working perfectly.

Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

I took off the cover of the stove with a socket 1/4 mm, screwdriver and pliers. Now it works perfectly. thanks.../

My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.