MVWC565FW3 Maytag Washer - Instructions

ordered hub and it shipped quickly. I was able to put the hub in place and screw the screws in. you want to tighten them down slowly and go around to each screw tightening a little at a time so you don't break the hub. as you tighten the screws down the hub slides down flush. its impossible to just push the hub on with your hand. Buttoned it back up and got caught up on laundry. good day when the washer is fixed.

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Watched a video to get a general idea. Moved washer to garage. Raised lid, supported with s-hook and light chain. Front springs were easy, except no hole for the rod to hang in so used chain and small screwdriver through mounting hole. Back springs were not as easy. Finally removed the back panel to get to the rods. Bingo, much easier and only took 5 min to remove the back panel. reassemble and she works like a charm. Suggest to find a video reflecting your particular brand and model as all are similar but uniquely different. Easy project though.

Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!

unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.

Used video provided,but while reinstalling shocks pull the shock absorbers thru holes in washer deck using a stiff wire or a metal coat hanger will also work. This made installation so much easier!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

- Shut off power to the washer
- Removed cap on top of agitator
- First, I tried using a ratchet set to remove the bolt that is inside the agitator at the baseplate. Tub would spin when I tried this method, so I used an air impact with long extensions. One press of the impact and the bolt loosened.
- Tied a pair of shoelaces together and stuffed them inside the seam around the agitator baseplate. I put the shoelaces half way around the baseplate. Get it in the seam then with two hands, each with an end of the shoelace, pull up on the baseplate. Success!!
- Installed the new agitator with base plate and then used the ratchet set to tighten the bolt. Didn’t want to take a chance on stripping the bolt inside the agitator with the air impact when tightening.

Unplugged, Removed rear screws
Pulled lid forward, and lifted, rested against wall
Removed rim piece, agitator, my wife cleaned them
Removed, replaced suspension rods one at a time, replaced plastic seats as I went
Removed old hub, cleaned and lubed gear and replaced, used a towel so screws did fall in the basin holes
Put back together
Used instructions to recalibrate
Tested it out, good to go
notes….the old parts don’t really appear damaged to the untrained eye, probably should send the bumper padding with this kit, the recal instructions were money!

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

After disconnecting water lines and power, tip machine onto its back. The actuator is located under the drum. Remove the cover over the motor/ drive belt. Actuator is located by the transmission and held on by several screws. Unplug the wiring harness and remove three screws with Phillips screwdriver. Install new actuator..

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Pulled the agitator, un-screwed the drive hub, cleaned the splines on the transmission, vacuumed the debris out of the tub. The repair video said to put towels or something down in the tub so if you drop a screw it will catch it. Put it back together and re-calibrated it. It didn't want to go into the calibrate mode until i moved the mode switch all the way to the left and then right first. Good quality factory parts!

Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash

I watched the supplied video when I purchased the parts