MVW5035MW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Watched a video to get a general idea. Moved washer to garage. Raised lid, supported with s-hook and light chain. Front springs were easy, except no hole for the rod to hang in so used chain and small screwdriver through mounting hole. Back springs were not as easy. Finally removed the back panel to get to the rods. Bingo, much easier and only took 5 min to remove the back panel. reassemble and she works like a charm. Suggest to find a video reflecting your particular brand and model as all are similar but uniquely different. Easy project though.

Used video provided,but while reinstalling shocks pull the shock absorbers thru holes in washer deck using a stiff wire or a metal coat hanger will also work. This made installation so much easier!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The belt in this model is underneath the washing machine. Disconnect water lines and power cords, set up the drain hose in a bucket to avoid water spilling on the floor, tip the washing machine on its back, remove two bolt screws holding the plastic covering the belt, remove the old belt, and install the new one.

After disconnecting water lines and power, tip machine onto its back. The actuator is located under the drum. Remove the cover over the motor/ drive belt. Actuator is located by the transmission and held on by several screws. Unplug the wiring harness and remove three screws with Phillips screwdriver. Install new actuator..

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

I watched the supplied video when I purchased the parts

I couldn't have done the job without the video or a helper. Replacing the first rod was a struggle but once we figured it out, the rest were easy.

Watched your videos. Knew I didn’t have the strength to do it myself. Contacted my son, he came by and using your instructions( you made me look very knowledgeable) it was done in short order!

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Took the top off an then the tub top an installed the spring suspenders . If you dont take the tub top off it will be very difficult to install .

When to PartSelect Web site, used their trouble shooting guide, Used their advice, which was to replace the actuator. bought and installed the actuator which took around 20 minutes or so. washer started working fine after replacing. Thanks to the website I save a lot of money. Thanks PartSelect