MFI2569VEM0 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

1. I had to remove the cold cut drawer.
2. Remove the two screws for the sliding track and then the sliding track.
4. Remove the two crisper drawers as well as the glass and the two supports for the glass.
3. Remove the two screws for the end cap. This is accomplished by gently lifting up at the front of the part. You will find another three parts that are attached to the end cap. One is the slider that controls the tempetature, it is attached to a long plastic rod that is connected to the back side of the end cap by pressure clip points. The other end of the plastic rod is connected to a piece that is mounted to the back wall of the refridgerator. this is removed by gently pulling the entire unit forward until it comes loose from the back wall. Once the entire assembly is removed, The plastic rod must be released from teh back of the end cap. This will allow both ends to be disconnected from the slider at the front and the piece that was attached to the back wall by rotating each end to allow the removal of the components fronm the end cap. Once everything is removed, you are ready to complete the repair by reversing the removal process.

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

Parts arrived quick and installed easy. One reveiwer said his wife did theinstall and that was my inspiration. Thank you.

I removed and replaced the suspect Control board. The problem with the select switch not responding still existed. I then ordered a new “PS2371545 Dispenser Front Overlay – Black”. This cured all but one of the non responsive select switch problems. I notified PartSelect that I received a defective board and they promptly sent a replacement Overlay. This cured my problem. Thank you for your Help with my problem. I highly recommend your company. Bill S.

Through out broken plastic, replace with new one
to be replaced in a few years.

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

First I removed the icemaker from the freezer by removing two horizontal screws holding it to the side wall, and one vertical screw holding the front to a bracket coming off the side wall. Then I used a flat screwdriver to unlock the electrical plug. (After doing this, I realized that this wasn't necessary at all, and this part could have been changed just as easily without removing the icemaker.) On the front, there is a white cover with Ice Maker Plus. Use a flat screwdriver to unlock the tangs and remove the cover. There are three screws in the corners that once removed, will allow the motor assy. to be gently pulled straight out. On the back of the part, you will see many gold lands that the timer touches. I don't think there was anything wrong with my motor. I had two spots where the gold plating was worn off, so I suspect it was not making contact, and the whole process would stop. Slide the new part in place making sure the teeth on the gears line up (not a big deal), and secure with the screws. Install cover and you're done. Mine has been making ice like it was brand new.

This is the 2nd time I had have had to replace the center rail in 2 years....

Removed the metal cover over the HV electronic board on the back of the unit. Using a flat head screwdriver I unsnapped the plastic cover and removed it. I unplugged the 5 or 6 cables from the electronic board. Bent back the plastic tabs holding the board. You might think they are going to break but they bend. I lifted the board out and replaced it with the new one. Then plugged the cables in being careful to align them first. I then applied power and the refrigerator came to life. I followed the programming instructions that came with the refrigerator. You can get those online also. The unit began to run and in a few minutes the compressor came on. The unit began cooling and life was good again!

Removed all of the bottom drawers and shelvs, then removed the end panel that contained the broken Deli cover hinge pin. Replaced with new panel, cleaned all of the existing parts and ten re-assembled.

First I removed the drawers and shelf above the pantry drawer and then removed the pantry drawer. The end cap came off very simply by removing two screws. I removed the slide attachment to the old end cap and attached it two the new end cap. I then installed the new end cap and replaced the drawers and shelf. The lid to the chef pantry popped right in place. Job complete.

I unboxed the replacement gasket set and inspected them for damage. Then I opened the left refrigerator door and grabbed the right hand corner of the old gasket and removed it. I then aligned the new gasket with the door and using my fingers pushed the gasket into the gasket grove. I used my thumb to seat the gasket. I repeated the process for the right door. Total time was under 15 minutes.

Since it was apparent the crisper glass is fragile I was very careful to not stress it. I opened the box then took a large board almost as big and slid it on. I carried both items to the fridge and with both doors open slid the glass into place. I am 65 yrs. Old and have owned many refrigerators but this is a first. They don't build them like they use to. .