MDG22PDAGW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!

ordered new lint screen, removed old screen, inserted new screen.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

Removed the oven door by following the straightforward instructions in the user's manual. Removed philips head screws to take the door assembly apart. Removed clips holding the two inner door glass plates, and the two plates. Removed the clamp holding the broken glass plate, then the glass and associated glass fragments. Then cleaned and re-installed the three glass plates and their clamps in reverse order. Re-assembled the door and re-attached to the oven. Only cautionary note is to be careful when removing, handling and re-installing the various glass plates. Watch out for fragments from the broken plate; they can cut you and/or fall on the floor.

I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine

First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yrs old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.

Found this site by googling, and it works! I searched lint filters and just ordered based on how it looked...LOL! Husband wasn't home, it looked pretty much like the one I had in my hand, so.... I ordered it. It is the perfect fit and seems to have a tighter gasket glued in all around the screen. Let's hope this one lasts longer than 6 months! Thank you Parts Select for being so fast!! Filter got here in less than 48 hrs.!

1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30

Important note: hinges are left and right do not mix them up or door will not re-assemble properly and you'll get to do it twice.

Steps I took:

Removed the oven door per the instructions in the oven operator manual. Removed several screws to release the interior steel liner.

Removing the steel liner was a bit of a hassle, Had to manipulate it to get it loose but it eventually came away from the stainless steel exterior door panel.

Disassembled the interior glass layers, there are three. The glass you need to replace is the last layer, of course. removed and discarded the broken glass. Note: the interior glass is not secured by a bracket or screws, it is held in place by compression of the interior steel liner and a another liner that is inside the door assembly (you'll figure this out when you dis-assemble).

Another note: there is a fluffy material gasket between these two liners, use care when you disassemble or the fluffy gasket will turn into confetti.

Take the opportunity to clean all glass and parts of the accumulated oven grease.

Re-assembled door and re-installed...looks good.

Another note, getting the door back together requires a little patience because there are clamping overlaps of the steel liner to the SS exterior door panel. Be prepared to jockey things around a little and make sure all your screw holes are all lined up before you begin to button it up. Remember, hinges are left and right they are not interchangeable.

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse