MAT11PDABL Maytag Washer - Instructions

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

I removed the front of the washer (two screws) and found the drain hose to be cracked near the top where it attached to the drum. A hardware store hose was inadequate because it crimped when bent in an S shape as required, so I ordered the proper part amd installed with two new clamps.
I bought a 5/15 socket driver to do up the clamps, and all is fine.

removed the front panel on washer.
unscrewed the top and bottom hose clamps on the hose.
removed the damaged hose. put on new hose clamps on the new hose.
made sure the larger diameter end of the hose was on the bottom.
pushed the new hose into place on the tub water outlet and on the top of the pump.
adjusted the hose clamps into place and tightened them both.
replaced the front panel on the washer with two screws on the bottom of the panel in the left and right corners.

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue

Found main drive belt had a big chunk out of it. Both belts were worn and "gummy". Replaced both belts with belt kit 12112425; no tools needed -- belts are replaced from the bottom. Just tip the washer back to the wall, and there are the belts.. Installation time 5 minutes.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

I tipped the washing machine (somewhat tricky since it sits under the dryer) and saw the broken belt. Went online, found the belt I needed, bought the set of two belts since I figured it would probably be a good idea to change both belts at the same time. After a few days I had the belts in hand; it took more time to jockey the machine back into place than it did to attach the belts. No tools necessary; the washer parts are on a spring. I did need a screwdriver, however, just to re-attach the washer's front panel.

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.