MAT10CSEGL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

The hardest part was actually finding the right part. It was easy to take of the control panel. make sure you unplug and plug in the correct wires....

I thought that would be it, but after doing that you need to fine adjust the whole assembly so that the timers and automatic switches work well.

That's about it.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Installed drive and pump belt.. very very simple. only tool required was a screw drive to remove front panel of the washing machine.

Replaced both the drive belt and pump belt in less than 10 minutes. Maytag has the easiest machines to work on.

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Partselect.com gave me a very helpful list of parts per symptom. Said that there is an 88% chance that belts were my problem. Since the machine is 200 miles away I ordered two other parts as well. Belts fixed it! Took front cover off (not totally necessary). When the machine is tilted back belts are exposed underneath. Two belts later I was up and running. This site is really great.