MAT10CSAGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

I removed the top cover that has the controls .Then started to voltage check the circuit (diagram was inside top cover) starting from L1 (had power cord pluged in) noted power was not going through the Check switch after tapping on the switch it started to work. the switch was intermitent so replaced with a new one from your company. works good now .Greg Gran

Had to look up how to pop the front panel off the washing machine - that was the hardest part. Once that was off, the top unbolted and the cover came off the back of the control panel with a few screws. Tilting the washer-top back, I was able to clip the new upper and lower injector (attached to each other in advance) to the washing machine. Then I realized that I needed to clamp the water line to the injector FIRST - so I found a small screw clamp and attached the water line. One screw and one plastic tab hold the injector in place. Everything went back together fine and worked great! Maytag washer keeps on truckin for another ten years!

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

I looked at the machine diagram on the website and removed the screw on the bottom and lifted up the from panel which allowed me to have easier access to the fill injector. Then I removed the back panel off of the control panel on the top of the machine and removed the screw that held the fill injector in place, attached the new fill injector using the hose clamp I ordered with the part ( you need a new hose clamp because the other one is useless after you remove the old injector). Tightend up the screw to hold the injector in place and replaced the back panel and front panel. It was an easy repair and only cost $28.00 with shipping. I easily saved $150.

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!

I removed the lid switch assembly and replaced it with the new lid switch assembly. The assembly included the lid switch, lid. check switch, and fuse. It came as one complete part.

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.

simply removed old motor and replaced with new

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

It would seem that my unhappy washer decided to
have a multiple component breakdown. after replacing one part after another, my baby runs like new. parts arrived quickly and installed easily, it was all the diagnostic that took the most time. the forums were quite helpful.

Pulled the switch assembly cover off. Removed the screws that held the lid switch assembly on and replaced the assembly.
I just want to say that the online exploded view of the parts list was very helpful. I really needed pictures and your website had them. Also the service delivered my part very swiftly and ordering was easy. If I ever need appliance parts again I will order them from your website.

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!