LDE8706ADE Maytag Dryer - Instructions
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Drum would not turn, drive motor humming loudly and unable to turn drum/blower wheel
The repair video is terrific and many others here have thoroughly described the steps involved to replace the drive motor.
The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:
"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."
Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.
With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.
Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:
TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)
The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.
I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.
I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:
"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."
Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.
With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.
Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:
TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)
The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.
I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.
I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
Parts Used:
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Peter from REDONDO BEACH, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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the plastic piece that went over the metal timer D post cracked. Was not able to turn on timer without pliers
I ordered the timer base knob, timer knob insert cap and the timer dial skirt. We put all three pieces together and put it on the D metal timer post. Good as new!
Parts Used:
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Dorothy from ROCKY HILL, CT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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One of the roller shafts was worn
Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.
Parts Used:
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William from Springfield, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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Squeaking noise
I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks
Parts Used:
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Charles from Daphne, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 4 people
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Plastic knob cracked so unable to set dryer
Initially I thought let me call so and so but then I thought, "wait, let me google the model and make and I looked up what I thought might be the part. So for $15.00 I fixed my dryer. I was very proud of myself and my husband was happy I saved him money!
Parts Used:
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Dianne from CHATHAM, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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I relaced our worn out lint filter
My part was not amazing. What was genuinely cool: I ordered it one day and it was here the next, took out the old and put in the new. Thanks for getting it here so quickly.
Parts Used:
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Robert from Sacramento, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 4 people
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Button to start dryer
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
Parts Used:
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Loretta E. from Miamisburg, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 7 people
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electric dryer had no heat
I removed the cover from the control panel, took out the schematic, removed the rear cover by the motor, followed the schematic, powered the heater by taking the blue hot leg wire off the right side of the switch and touching it to the black lead for the heater on the left side, and I could hear the heater power on. Since bypassing the motor start switch powered the heater, I ordered the part. When it came, I installed it in about 5 minutes and the dryer worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
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David from Lower Burrell, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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When the dryer grumbles check the blower wheel too.
If your dryer is making a rumbling noise, change the blower wheel. It's plastic and the heating and cooling cycles causes the keyway in the plastic to give out and the wheel just spins causing the noise and the slower dry time. The other parts I replaced see below. Like many other repairs, remove screws below dryer door. Mark all wires and locations for re-assembly. Next remove front tumbler/lint screen assembly (4 sheet metal screws 2/L 2/R. Work belt off back of tumbler and remove. Use flathead screw driver to release tabs that hold felts on both front and back tumble supports. Make sure you know rotation of tumbler and install new felts so the overlap goes in direction of spin. Use a drum stick or 3/8 ratchet extension, something dull and flat to press tabs back down on felts. A screwdriver could slip off and tear cloth. Next drill out heads of the rivets on the glides and remove teflon glide and cork backer. Make sure all rivet material is removed front and back. Install new cork and glide. Rivet one side back in, then the other. Repeat on 2nd glide. Re-assemble dryer. Super smooth, super quiet.
Parts Used:
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Chris from MArietta, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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Dryer dial seat broken
reassembled dial skirt with other two parts and pressed them on to timer shaft. Skirt was approximately one half inch too deep for my model. It works fine but has a gap between the skirt and the dryer.
Parts Used:
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Roger from ITHACA, NY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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timer knob broken.
Removed broken knob and replaced new timer knob it fit perfect, no problems.
Parts Used:
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Clayton from DODSON, LA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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Broken Timer cover
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Kevin from MERRIMAC, MA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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hole in filter
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Robert from WESTCHESTER, IL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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dryer not getting hot enough
my son did the installation according to your excellent video instructions
Parts Used:
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RON from VIENNA, VA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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front glides wore out
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james from WOODBURN, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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