KPM50 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse order as they withdrew.

A part required to operate the bowl lift had failed, "broken in half". I removed the base, by removing 4 large philips head screws, then removed the pedestal which housed the broken part by removing 4 more large philips head screws. I used a hammer and punch to drive out the split pin, a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and replaced the broken part.

Pulled off end cover. Used the how-to video's to show me how to remove the (3) components (watch out when it comes to removing the spring). Removed all (3) components (one issue was the black cardboard seal, which because of its age broke. Hindsight tells me that I should have purchased a replacement seal along with the (3) new parts.
Fixed the broken part of the seal with scotch tape). Installed all new parts with the help of the video's and put the cover back on. Even with the new parts, the mixer would not run. Come to find out, after I took it to an appliance repair person, that someone had pulled both brushes and put them back in improperly. I could not find a how-to video that showed me how to de-install/re-install the brushes properly. I assume that was because new brushes were no longer available for purchase. At any rate, when the brushes were put in properly, everything worked. The repair person also adjusted the (2) screws on the speed control plate so that when you change the speeds via the lever, it all works properly. I didn't find a how-to video covering those adjustments either.

Literally the whole top of this stand mixer had to be taken apart. With the help of U-tube! We realized the silver strip was removable and there where screws underneath. We figured we would replace both parts while it was all taken apart. We cleaned the mixer and added some grease where necessary. I now have a 25 year old new mixer. Thanks for having our parts and guiding us with a diagram of the unit. Very helpful.

Looked for the probable cause from a U-tube video, then found the parts list and repair video on the PartSelect website. When the parts arrived within 3days the shipped email had a video on exactly how to complete the repair. Repair video was very well done and easy to follow.

We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.

Looked at the mixer schematic form your website,which made it easy for me to take it apart. Once it was apart & all the grease removed I disassembled & cleaned all the drive parts. Saw what was warn, ordered the parts from you. Three days later received the parts, everything fit perfect. Added grease,assembled the mixer and it ran perfect, good for another 20 yrs. Thank you for making it so easy to repair an old mixer in just over two hours. Rolf

Followed the video on your website and it was super simple!

We disassembled it with the help of a YouTube video from partselect.
We saw the damaged gear, removed the 4 screws to remove it, cleaned all the old grease out with rags so it wouldn't be contaminated by metal shavings.
We reassembled it per the YouTube video and it works better than ever!!
Make sure you remove the roll pin before trying to pry off the planetary plate, because I watched a different video first, which didnt tell me that and i bent it a bit.

Unplugged mixer. Removed screw holding cover on. Removed end seal. Inspected repair area for furhter damage. Installed new end seal and cover.

Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior to removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.

As I was using my mixer the spring clip broke off. I immediately went to my computer and googled you. Twenty-four hours later the part had arrived and I installed it by removing two screws, holding the spring in place and replacing the screws. At the same time a repairman was in our home repairing our drier and I felt so empowered by my repairmanship that I nearly asked him to leave!
Thanks for your extreme promptness and readable parts chart.

Separated the mixer head from the pedestal and base by removing four bolt/screws (It is not necessary to separate the base and pedestal) . Rotated the lift arm to the raised position (a screwdriver might come in handy since the broken part might impede access) and removed the cotter pin (using needlenosed pliers) on the broken lift arm. Then used a hammer and a small hex driver to punch out the lift lever retaining/actuating pin. This allowed me to pull out the lift lever and replace the broken part with the new lift arm. It was a simple matter to then replace the lift lever retaining/actuating pin and the lift arm cotter pin, and reassemble the mixer head and pedestal.

Repairing/replacing worm-gear (FSP part# W10112253) for a KitchenAid Stand Mixer model number K5SS. First: I am writing this story because all the videos or repair articles I’ve viewed are either misleading or incorrect in that they do not include older K5SS models. 1. These older models from the mid 1960’s or even earlier have four very large #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws holding the mixer base to the motor assembly and NOT four small machine screws (one with a lock-washer) as seen on other repair videos. In addition, the stand is composed of two separate pieces with the bottom half being held together with another four identical #4 chrome plated Phillips Head Screws. The upper four holding the stand to the motor housing (I used a manual impact driver to loosen the very stubborn, #4 Phillips screws) must be removed so as to access the four smaller Phillips machine screws (no lock-washers found here, best buy at least four #10, split, before reassembly) 2. Lastly, you will need two pin punches however the recommended smaller 3/32 inch is still too large to remove the pin in the tower assembly. You will need one size smaller or a #4 pin punch instead. These older Kitchen Aid mixers were built with very tight tolerances. Please be patient and take your time removing the pins. Good Luck……. Jim

I removed the pin from the outside shaft,then removed all screw around the body of the mixer,then removed the top case out,took 3 screws out from the the gear assembly case......punched the pin out of worm gear then release the little shaft out from the case,replaced a new one....then starting go backward till completely all assembled don't forget lube grease to all gears and test run good very smooth.........it's ok