KF57U56 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

I read many reviews on how to change the seal/gasket, and decided that as I was the only one around to do the job, it would be easier to take the fridge door off and then lay it flat. remember to take the handle off as well. Then it was a case of taking each screw of, there are many to remove. While this job was being completed, I placed the new gasket in hot water from the tap to soften the gasket as it came in a box folded. Once all the screws were removed , then it was a case of fitting on the new gasket starting from top and working my way around. finally placing all the screws back, but not too tight. Then I placed the door back and also placed a flash light in the fridge to see if any light was coming out. The door opened and closed without any problems and the seal did not have any gaps. finally with door on the fridge, I tightened the screws-only hand tight. Job completed. This may sound obvious, but any way, dont forget to disconnect the fridge from the electrical supply, otherwise you risk burning out the motor, with all the extra work the fridge has to do, while you are doing the replacement.

I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.

Upon careful inspection, I found that the dispenser also would occasionally fail to shut off when dispensing whole or crushed ice, which led me to think that the problem was in the dispenser actuator rather than in the water solenoid or fountain switch control board. To inspect the actuator mechanism, I shut off power to the refrigerator, removed the escutcheon mounting screws, the escutcheon, the cable from the fountain switch control board, and finally the fountain bracket assembly. There was a small amount of hard water scale on the back of the actuator pad, but no groove in the plastic part of the pad that actuates the switch. I replaced the pad and switch (1 screw) and reassembled the dispenser. The dispenser no longer sticks and shuts off normally.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Very easy to remove one screw holding the enclosuer, then unplug the wire harness, remove 4 screws holding the solinoid, and the 4 screws holding the auger motor. The hardest part was removing the auger from the shaft of the motor. this took most of the time. reassembly went very fast.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!