KDTE254ESS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

Removed old gasket, cleaned track and replaced gasket-also quit using Cascade pellets and went back to using Cascade powder with a numerical "rating" of 6. The pellets of even 10 caused the washer to leak, obviously too much foam would not float the float to actuate the pump.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Followed a video, pretty straightforward. Be sure to clean all the area. My husband used cotton swabs to clean all the gunk.

I replaced both upper rack tracks because the spot welds on one of the factory tracks failed after 18 months. The welds just rusted away and let go. The other track appeared to be close to failure so I replaced both of them. This repair is actually quite easy, but in order to change the tracks, you must pull the appliance out at least a little more than halfway in order to reach the screws that hold the tracks in place. There are four such screws on each side -- they are fastened through the exterior face of the tub. Here is the process:
Use a 1/4" nut driver to remove the bottom front (kick) plate from the appliance. There are two screws, one at each end. There should also be two screws fastening the dishwasher to the countertop. You'll need to open the dishwasher door to see these and remove them. At the bottom of the dishwasher again, you might need to screw the front (2) leveling feet in to lower the dishwasher and provide clearance. Once done, just (gently, slowly) pull the appliance out of the cabinet. Check to make sure your power wiring, drain hose, and water supply hose are all long enough to do this. If necessary, disconnect any of these that are too short. if your power wiring is short, as mine was, you'll need to disconnect the circuit breaker, then remove the junction box at the lower front right side of the dishwasher, then disconnect the power and ground wires.
Once out of the cabinet, use a 5/16" nut driver to remove the four screws holding each rack slide in place and remove the track. The rubber mounts will come out with the track (new tracks include new rubber mounts). Clean any residue from the track mounting area inside the tub before installing the new track. This whole replacement process should take a total of 3-4 minutes per side.
To finish up, just reverse the process. When sliding the dishwasher back into place, make sure the fiberglass insulation stays in place completely around the outside of the tub.
Because the tile on my kitchen floor does not continue under the dishwasher (tile was installed after the cabinets), it was absolutely necessary to turn in the leveling feet to get the appliance out. Since this also makes it very difficult to get a wrench around the plastic feet, I used a very small socket (3/16"?) on the top of the leveling feet stems. This makes it really easy to turn the feet.
I the appliance designers had engineered things better by fastening the tracks from inside the tub, this would be a 5-minute job. But it's still not bad at all.

Remove two screws at top that fasten dishwasher to cabinet. Slide dishwasher out to expose the two links that attach the door to the springs. Fit the new links to the springs and door.

Ordered the "right" part according to the diagram. The part I received was about 1/4" too long so I couldn't use the whole manifold. Took the rubber end off and - fortunately- it fit the old manifold. Dishwasher works fine now. Wish I could have ordered just the rubber valves.

This kit comes with the link cords and the balance wheels. I only needed the cords. I undid the set screws under the counter edge and slid the Dishwasher out from under the counter. One of the links had a broken cord and the spring had snapped to the very back of the space and was a bit hard to find. I used the good side as a guide to see how to thread the cord correctly. I did not replace the wheels since they appeared to be in good shape and looked like they might be a bit more difficult to replace than just the cord. For a second I thought I had ordered the wrong part because the new cord's attachment point at the hinge did not look exactly like the originals but the new design worked just like the original. I did need one other person to help stretch the spring and hold the door in the best position so I could attach the cord to the hinge. It's working perfectly now and I saved the wheels in case I need them later.

I pulled the rack and removed failed parts, then reassembled. I would note that the videos are helpful as dishwasher racks can be a bit of a puzzle.

Why manufacturers use so much plastic in a heated environment is beyond me. The heat cycle degrades the plastic to failure - poor design!

I removed the old gasket. Cleaned the surface under the old gasket and began pressing the new gasket into place. Make sure the gasket is pressed all the way in to properly seat it in the groove. Didn't use the tube of gasket sealer and it worked perfectly no leak,

The cost part plus shipping for each piece which was described as not cleaning properly due to not spraying. Each of these prices is part plus shipping, diverter valve $28.32 diverter motor did not fix the problem diverter motor $125.08 did not fix the problem my next option is the motor assembly which comes out to $311.53. I think they lead you on with the little parts and you work your way up with the big ones expense wise at this point I will simply cut my losses and buy a new dishwasher because I'm almost at what it would cost for a new one and I've had this one for 4 years. When I went to look for what the problem was each one of these said not cleaning properly which I think now is a generic term to just go from the smallest to the largest if I'm going to replace the motor for 300 plus dollars I might as well just buy a new washer

Was a cinch just watched the video whole procedure took an hr or so

Make sure you have everything you need before you start. The upper rack adjuster broke when the left track failed and needed to be replaced. Although only the left side track failed, the right side would have soon enough.

This repair was fairly simple. First, toggle the circuit breaker off and turn off the water supply under the sink. Remove gray plastic covers to expose and remove Phillips head screws on each side of inner door frame then remove plastic kick plate before sliding the dishwasher out roughly 20”. The insulation needs to be folded back (tab release back bottom corner) to expose the four rack fasteners on each side. A small socket bit (I used a slow speed hand drill) makes quick work of removing old tracks but make sure one hand is inside on the track to catch what’s left of it. Replace both tracks (the second will fail) arrow pointing up using the fasteners you removed. Reset the insulation and make sure water, drain and electrical connectors are all in good order before sliding dishwasher back and fastening side frame screws to adjoining cabinets (tip: use painter’s tape or similar to keep screw head connected to screwdriver). Replace plastic caps and the kick plate. I had to replace the upper rack adjuster before reinstalling the upper rack on the new tracks. Check the bottom filter and reservoir for any plastic bits or ball bearings and remove them before turning power and water back on. Enjoy not having to hand wash dishes again. For me, about 40 minutes.

Replace motor-pump. All was as advertised plus the surprise of included outlet hose. I didn't have the tool to operate the clamp, it leaked, so I replaced it with a stainless worm gear type.