KBLS20EVMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.

1. removed both bottom crisper drawers
2. removed glass shelf under crisper drawers
3. removed shelf support pieces
4. removeded snack drawer
5. removed left slide rail using phillips screwdriver (2 screws)
6. removed LH end cap using socket wrench (3 screws)
7. attached new LH end cap
8. attached slide rail
9. installed glas shelf supports
10. installed glas shelf
11. install bottom crisper drawers
12. install snack drawer
13. install snack drawer top

total time was less than 15 minutes

Removed the three screws that held part, lifted and removed old part and replaced with new piece.
Couldn't have been easier. Saved me the $100 the repair man quoted me. Cannot believe it was so easy and the
part was soooo affordable! Thank you very much for the speedy delivery. It came within days of my order.
I will use your service again for sure!
Thank you!
Allyn Rosenzweig

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Well folks I put up with an ice burg all summer when I really should have took the time to fix it. You know how it goes though. You get so busy you just put it off.
Well don't put this one off because this is just how easy it went.
I came home one evening and wanted to make a drink to relax but that big glob of ice was there waiting for me. I took a crewdriver and beat it down so I could pull the catch basin out. Having looked it over for a minute I grabed a nut driver and took three of the screws out that held it in. I unpluged the wire and bingo it was out. Maybe five min. had elasped.
After taking the unit out I notice how the non stick surface was coming off of the tray and that explains the black pieces that were getting into my ice.
Getting the model number off the back of the fridge and writing it down I went to my trusty lap top and did a quick search for a ice maker for my Jenn Air refrigeraton and blamo...! Part Select came up and I put the part number in their search engine and bingo again there it was, my part.
One quick order and in three days it was right there by my door when I got home.
Now i'm so excited. I went into the house and didn't even chage out of my dress clothes. Within five minutes it was in. Now I just had to wait for the timer to do it's thing and sure enough, I awoke the next morning to a whole tray of beautiful ice cubes. Wow no more ice burgs.
The moral of my story is I spent so much time hacking out that glob of ice and for fifteen minutes of my time, I could have been siping on cold ones by the pool but now old man winter is pressing down on me and I guess a lesson learned was a lesson earned. Fix it!

1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

unsrewed the back plate, removed three tubes. Then I removed old valve and replaced with new. Pluged two harnesses back in the new valve. Truned water on and checked for leaks and operated the filtered water tap and the ice maker. All went well.
I really like your site for the pictures included with the part, I like to see what I'm ordering.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.